climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 Climbandmore special
The Last, but Not Least Decade
Arco Rock Junior 2010
Humbles stays home - Maja Vidmar onsighted 8b+
Ice Climbing Trip to the Land of the Rising Sun
Why Yosemite? Answers by Top Climbers
 Climbandmore special

The Last, but Not Least Decade
The short history of rock climbing 2000-2010


by Tomasz Mazur (Góry Magazine)
edited and translated by Monika Mlodecka



Entry Book - Part I

Another year behind us - the last year of the first decade of the 21st century. By all existing media we will be flooded with summaries, opinions, retrospectives, juxtapositions and so on of what happened at that time. Besides dozens of prizes, polls, awards, praises... I’m not going to avoid contributing to this "sin" as well. And to make matters worse, this article will provide only a subjective viewpoint of the sample summary considering respectable, important and special events within rock climbing and all that’s connected with it, in the past ten years.

The biggest "sin" of chronological decade limited by two impassable dates - 1 January 2000 and December 31, 2009 - is that certain events, phenomena and trends do not want to surrender themselves to such rigidly marked framework of time, thereby impeding a consistent look, and sometimes even breaking the logic of an evaluation or a summary. Krzysztof Wielicki, in his winter manifesto[1] talking about the golden decade of Polish Himalayan mountaineering, started with the first winter ascent on Everest in 1980 and ended tragically with avalanche accident on the Everest in 1989 (when five Polish mountaineers died) and Kukuczka's death on Lhotse. Are these meaningful frameworks in rock climbing the opening by Patrick Edlinger Ça glisse aux pays des merveilles - the first bolted 8a in 1983 and on the other hand the completed implementation of Wolfgang Güllich's Action Direct - the first 9a in 1991? Or rather, this "historical" decade should be more extended, e.g. since 1979, when Tony Yaniro led the Grand Illusion 8a/+ on his own protection? Or should it end with the other tragic accident, which was Güllich's car crash in 1992?

Therefore we can ask whether it makes sense to summarize a "chronological" decade in discipline such as rock climbing which is so irrational and not subordinated to permanent cycles of time? Wouldn’t it be better to wait some more years, keeping a critical distance, proper perspective and then announce "the winner" and hand out stuffed envelopes for the bests? However, that rigidly set date of the end of the decade, similar to the end of the each following year, when we often summarize past months - is the temptation to look in retrospect, less emotionally, more with the proper balance, and therefore much more widely at what happened in longer period of time, giving on that occasion contribution to the future appointment of "historic" decades.

It is even more intriguing that the opening years of the decade yield the end of some era in rock climbing...

To start with, let’s take a look at what we entered the twenty-first century with... Although for some part of the climbing society the noblest ideas of alpinism, taken as a whole activity of climbing may seem iconoclastic and stab, a major trend, targeted by the eyes of the media, and thereby their customers, strives to achieve the most difficult routs. Regardless of what discipline is climbing like, to generate the highest rate is, directly or indirectly, the most important aim for the top climbers. Obviously, it’s most visible and tangible in the currently dominant bouldering and sport rock climbing.



[1] Taternik 2/2001. The Manifesto was read in 2002 at a congress of Polish Alpinism Association and does not include the fact of the first winter ascent on Shisha Pangma, made on 14.01.2005 by Piotr Morawski and Simone Moro.


1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10  
See also
 Books/Movies
Jerry Moffatt - Revelations
 Climbandmore special
Humbles stays home - Maja Vidmar onsighted 8b+
Chris Sharma Quotes – Zen Thoughts
Martina Èufar: "7 Most Important Moments in My Climbing Career"
Natalija Gros: "7 Most Important Moments in My Climbing Career"
 Climbers
Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany
Josune Bereziartu, b.1972, Spain
Martina Èufar
David Graham
Alexander Huber
 Fotogallery
Aleksandra Taistra in Rodellar - Gallery
Petzl Roc Trip in Zillertal
Top Climbers
Famous Climbers' Portraits
Ola Taistra Gallery
Arco Rock Legends 2006
 Interviews
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Alex Huber on Pan Aroma
Josune Bereziartu - Part I
Dave Graham
 Mags
Desnivel 11/07
Desnivel 07/07
Góry 09/06
Góry 06/06
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
9a for Jacopo Larcher and another 8c+ for Mélissa Le Nevé
A run of good RRG luck continues – Mélissa Le Nevé + Cardwell and Ondra
FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+
Another boulder conquests by Carlo Traversi and Dai Koyamada
Carlo Traversi pushing himself in Magic Woods
Dai Koyamada's disappointment in Chironico
Echo from the rocks – Söderlund, Sharma, Harnden, Fineron
White Noise for Graham, Mind 2 Motion for Hong
FFA of Tetris 8A+
Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
Arco Rock Legends 2012
Dai Koyamada on The Story of 2 Worlds
Josune Bereziartu New Mixed Route
Stephan Siegrist successful in Patagonia
The Huber Brothers Set Another Speed Record
Alex Huber opens Pan Aroma 8c
Dave Graham repeats Realization 9a+!
Another 8c+ for Josune Bereziartu
Another 8c for Ola Taistra
Dave Graham repeats Eclatamasters 9a
Harrington Joins 8c Women Club
Another Huber's free-solo
Rock Master 2006 - Results
Ociepka sends 8c
Bereziartu and Otegui make their first free ascent in the Pyrenees
 Training
Listen to the Master: Ben Moon
Josune Bereziartu on Training
It’s all in your mind: Mental Training Quotes
Listen to the Master: Ben Moon, Part 1
Listen to the Master: Jerry Moffatt
 Walls
Trango Nameless Tower
Torre Central
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2014 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik