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In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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The Last, but Not Least Decade
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Ice Climbing Trip to the Land of the Rising Sun
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Pushing the "Numbers"- Part IV

The short history of rock climbing 2000-2003

The world climbing entered the twenty-first century with 9a RP, 8b+ OS (Elie Chevieux on Massey Ferguson in Calanques), and the achievements of women just one step below: 8c+ RP (Josune Bereziartu on Honky Mix in Onate) and 8b OS (Katie Brown on Omaha Beach in the Red River Gorge).

Around the world flashed fireworks. The liters of various beverages were drunk. To the "bloody" dawn, the glasses were being raised to the New Year, the decade, the century and the millennium. Such an opportunity does not happen every day;) And heads were filled with thoughts about the new plans, intentions and hopes...

The burden of responsibility was taken upon by young Chris Sharma, who was blown after his numerous trips, finally to the French land and more specifically to Céüse. The venerable project had been waiting there for him - bolted in 1989 by Jean-Christophe Lafaille and a bit in advance (after the French fashion) called Biographie - a total of 60 moves on 40 meters. In the meantime, in 1996 Arnaud Petit had a smattering of the project, leading the first part of the route to the rest hollow and having estimated this section at 8c+. But the main difficulties in the form of seven to eight moves, are accumulated in the upper part (with a three-finger undercling for your right hand you must reach with your left another three-finger pocket, very far away. Then, from this three-finger pocket, you must cross on a kind of edge and avoid a dreadful flag.). Working on the route took Sharma about more than a month divided into several seasons. Finally, the accomplishment of the redpoint took place in July 2001. American, according to common practice gave the line name of Realization, shirking, as he’s in the habit of doing so, rating the whole passage. In no way could the world deny the first undisputed and acceptable 9a +! In accordance with the truth it couldn’t do without a wee discord, because the French insisted that the privilege of the baptism should have belonged to a person who had bolted the route, not led... One way or another, a new difficulty finally became an undeniable fact.

Refering once again to Sharma, although he may have been 20 years then he was not a climber from nowhere. Pushed out into the gym wall at the age of 12, he soon discovered his vocation and the gift which had been given to him. Two years later he won the U.S. Championships in bouldering, then the next year he opened the route Necessary Evil 8c+, which was then the most difficult route on the American soil. Sharma has combined his two passions: for travel and climbing, in one activity - travelling around the globe doing both extremely hard boulders and climbing routes (including the DWS). If you add his nice looks and endearing character to his moderation, modesty, even in avoiding evaluating his realizations (does it ring a bell?); and contemplations over the idea of climbing itself – he’s become the ideal candidate for the posters, not only advertising bold companies, but also as the "face" of the climbing in general, not without making some wee boobs though...

The center of gravity moved explicitly to Spain, which in the meantime gave birth to large number of climbers up to the world mark. If we were to collect circa 30 climbers being able to send 9a - about half of them would be the Spaniards (including Catalans and Basques, of course). Ahead of the pack stayed for a long time Daniel Andrada Jimenez, Josune Bereciartu Urruzola and the "enfant terrible" Bernabe Fernandez, who with the course of were encouraged by the "young guns" such as Ramón Julian Puigblanque, Eduardo Marin Garcia, Patxi Usobiaga Lakunza and Eva Lopez Rivera, to name just a few of them.

The battlefield of generations was designated in Siurana on unrepeated since 1994 line La Rambla by Alex Huber, who according to contemporary trends (as well as his practice), “slightly” undergraded the route to 8c+. But for all top climbers (not only Spanish) consistently falling from La Rambla it became clear that a little higher grade was at stake, and this looked like a tempting possibility to extend the line over another seven meters... The winner turned out to be Ramonet, who, although known for his quick repetitions, dedicated to the route (including extension) two years of work and around 50 attempts - in the intervals between working as an electrician on the railway. So, La Rambla Direct (Extension) became in 2003 the second undisputed 9a+. And if this were not enough, Ramon Julian announced that in his opinion, the extension did not increase the difficulty of the line! Well, once again Huber lost some covers in climbing magazines...

History, however, can still change a bit here, because a little earlier Flex Luthor in the Fortress of Solitude was opened due to Tommy Caldwell’s activity. The rate was known under the banner of "the-most-difficult-route-I’ve-ever-done", suggesting simultanously something around 9a+. Another pretender was the passage carried out by Yuij Hirayama - Flat Mountain (the name is a translation of his Japanese surname into English) in Futagoyama, which had racked the brain of the Japanese for almost 14 years. But the Land of the Rising Sun is so far a kind of "terra incognita" for top climbers successfully omitting it.

It seemed that our little climbing world began to be finally orded. After ten years, we had the new grade and what’s more a large leading group able to climb something like that, and maybe what’s most important - climbers got rid of the basic "sin" of modesty, which depreciation of difficulties seemed to be...
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See also
 Books/Movies
Jerry Moffatt - Revelations
 Climbandmore special
Humbles stays home - Maja Vidmar onsighted 8b+
Chris Sharma Quotes – Zen Thoughts
Martina Èufar: "7 Most Important Moments in My Climbing Career"
Natalija Gros: "7 Most Important Moments in My Climbing Career"
 Climbers
Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany
Josune Bereziartu, b.1972, Spain
Martina Èufar
David Graham
Alexander Huber
 Fotogallery
Aleksandra Taistra in Rodellar - Gallery
Petzl Roc Trip in Zillertal
Top Climbers
Famous Climbers' Portraits
Ola Taistra Gallery
Arco Rock Legends 2006
 Interviews
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Alex Huber on Pan Aroma
Josune Bereziartu - Part I
Dave Graham
 Mags
Desnivel 11/07
Desnivel 07/07
Góry 09/06
Góry 06/06
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
9a for Jacopo Larcher and another 8c+ for Mélissa Le Nevé
A run of good RRG luck continues – Mélissa Le Nevé + Cardwell and Ondra
FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+
Another boulder conquests by Carlo Traversi and Dai Koyamada
Carlo Traversi pushing himself in Magic Woods
Dai Koyamada's disappointment in Chironico
Echo from the rocks – Söderlund, Sharma, Harnden, Fineron
White Noise for Graham, Mind 2 Motion for Hong
FFA of Tetris 8A+
Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
Arco Rock Legends 2012
Dai Koyamada on The Story of 2 Worlds
Josune Bereziartu New Mixed Route
Stephan Siegrist successful in Patagonia
The Huber Brothers Set Another Speed Record
Alex Huber opens Pan Aroma 8c
Dave Graham repeats Realization 9a+!
Another 8c+ for Josune Bereziartu
Another 8c for Ola Taistra
Dave Graham repeats Eclatamasters 9a
Harrington Joins 8c Women Club
Another Huber's free-solo
Rock Master 2006 - Results
Ociepka sends 8c
Bereziartu and Otegui make their first free ascent in the Pyrenees
 Training
Listen to the Master: Ben Moon
Josune Bereziartu on Training
It’s all in your mind: Mental Training Quotes
Listen to the Master: Ben Moon, Part 1
Listen to the Master: Jerry Moffatt
 Walls
Trango Nameless Tower
Torre Central
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