Listen to the Master: Ben Moon, Part 1
In general, endurance work is all about volume, so if you’ve got the time, then the best place to get fit is at the crag, simply by putting the mileage in. With bouldering and power training you can get the results from shorter, high quality sessions.
At the moment I just limit myslef to 1-arm pull-ups and Campusing, but that’s cos I have easy access to rock. If I lived in London, I’d definitely use them more frequently and I’d have a deadhanging edge as well. But climbing should always come first as the technical element is so high. I see loads of climbers who are strong indoors, getting burnt off at the crag.
If you’re going to get as strong as possible, then you kind of accept that you’re going to have problems. You’ve just got to stick to the obvious stuff: warm-up throughly, including some light exercise and a strech and then gradually building up the intensity of your problems. Don’t train when you’re tired and always stop when you still feel strong.
Resting between attempts
Power training is all about quality of effort so you should take as long as you need to ensure that every attempt is a good one, especially if your aim is to do the problem.
Variety is the spice of life. Look what it did for Simon Nadin. He climbed on all types of rock in all styles and all over the world and became World Champion. Variety will give you good skills, stop you stagnating and keep you motivated.
If you really want...
[…] If you want something badly enough, and go after it with all your heart, things will come good in the end. If you really want to get better at climbing, you will.
Neil Gresham, Materclass Secrets: Bouldering & Power Training with Ben Moon, “Climber”, November 2000
Marius Morsted, Training, some basic principles, “On The Edge” No. 92
Marius Morsted, Endurance – part one, “On the Edge” 2000, No.95