|
Very Big Love - Part VI
The short history of rock climbing
While the old masters were wheeling and dealing of their problems, into action came once again the American star of climbing blockbusters - a Chris Sharma. Although he had permanently settled down in Spain, some patriotic spirit of his led him to the uninhabited desert Clark Mountain. There was that forgotten, more than 70 meter long line of Randy Leavitt, who, having become aware of the difficulties of the route he had bolted, he left it rather for next generations, perhaps hoping that he would live to the day when someone would be able to send such a monster. Chris fell in love with the arcade and spent several fruitless months trying to work it out. Nevertheless, after a year and a half Chris matured to pure sending of the passage. He finally succeeded in summer of 2008, and in this way Jumbo Love became a reality. Rumour had it that Sharma broke and timidly bade 9b arousing a little controversy, since it was believed that the rate should oscilate rather around 9b+. But it is worth remembering that at that time Chris had in his climbing output “only” two routes 9a+ (Realization, La Rambla) and Es Pontas. Only later will the time come for Golpe de Estado 9b, Open your mind direct 9a+, Papichulo 9a+, Demencia Senile 9a+, Pachamama 9a+, Neanderthal 9b...
The delimitation of sequential "numbers" of difficulty scale is followed by almost inherent comrade-in-arms - the noble style of OS, in which two names were etched on the pages of history. After nine years of sending by Elie Chevieux 8b+ OS, in 2004 we finally observed another breakthrough, this time in the Baltozola cave, where Yuji Hirayama sent on-sight White Zombie 8c. Japanese was quite solidly motivated, because the style and the difficulty had been his dream for a long time. Five years earlier he on-sighted Mortal Kombat, but that was quickly undergraded to 8b +. Slow and steady wins the race... The elite "8c OS" club began to grow with another names (Mrázek, Usobiaga, Puigblanque; the last two of them had on their accounts two such ascents). To tell the truth, it did not do without sarcasms and malice: perhaps it was pretty chalked, or was a part of a known combination, or quickdraws were preplaced by buddy, or simply that it was overrated and easier that it seemed. Unfortunately, OS has its own rights and we somehow have to accept it;) Meanwhile in December 2007, perfect weather conditions and a supernatural powers of Patxi Usobiaga became one. Within one week Basque added to his list: La Rambla extension 9a+, La Novena Enmienda 9a+, Esclatamasters 9a, Fuck the system 9a, and it took him only one day to send on-sight: Variante Monocroma 8c and one 8b+ and 8b and many minor "just-to-warm up" routes... Barely had he shaken off his muscles, when he opened the project in Exaturia, which previously had broken a few celebrities. The effect was electrifying - Bizi Euskaraz 8c+ opened in on-sight style! If you compare the date of the every first confirmed grade in RP to OS, it is easy to notice that the best OS ascents placed themselves some 3-4 degrees beneath the hardest RP of the time. Usobiaga’s feat brought both styles closer at the distance of only two grades! It is true that in the following year Sharma jumped over the RP grade, but this only highlights the phenomenal achievement of amiable Basque.
|
