climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Patrick Edlinger has passed away
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
 News/Last added

Great ascents by Alex Puccio and Nalle Hukkataival
+ Jan Hojer verifies the grades.


As we wrote few days ago, Alex Puccio had chosen the Swiss area of Chironico as the location of her next boulder conquests. During her stay there, she has already done seven 8A’s and harder, including Teamwork and Kit Dynamite (the latter she decided to downgrade a bit to 7C+), as well as Roswell 8A+. Those who thought that would be it for the American athlete will now realize to what extent they were wrong. Alex has been continuing her conquest and in the last few days she made the ascents of Conquistadors and La Soucoupe, both 8A+. According to the 8a.nu portal, on the American’s list there are already 47 boulders graded 8A and harder!! High time she pushed herself on some nice 8B problem, don’t you think?
 
 

Alex Puccio (photo: up-climbing.com)


And now a short riddle for the enthusiasts of the Dosage series. Do you remember Dave Graham’s boulder project presented in Dosage 3 and tried by Chris Sharma in the following part of the series? Yes, you’re right, that’s the crazy project in Val Bavona! And you’re also right saying that it hasn’t been repeated yet… NOT!! The problem has recently turned out to be favorable to Finn boulderer Nalle Hukkataival :-) Nalle writes in his blog that Off the Wagon, as he named it, is one of the purest boulders he's ever climbed and that’s because - surprise, surprise – there are not many features on it. When it comes to grading, the Finn athlete comments on the difficulties as follows: “Although it’s my style, I’m extremely spanned out sticking the first dyno which makes the next campus move really hard. I must have fallen there at least eight times on the link, after sticking the first dyno. So based on my experience on the problem, I’m proposing 8C for it.”




Nalle Hukkataival on Off the Wagon (photo: blog.nallehukkataival.com)


NOOOOT! Young German, Jan Hojer became the second ascentionist of the boulder and questioned the grade, giving it the personal 8B+ which, however, can be related to his height, as he emphasizes the difficulty of the line for shorter climbers. It is worth mentioning that Jan has also already managed to repeat another new extreme problem by Nalle, Momentum 8C (Val Bavona) which he also decided to downgrade to 8B+. Big up!


 
Sources: 8a.nu, blog.nallehukkataival.com, up-climbing.com
 
See also
 Brand news
Wild Country Helium - recall notice!!
Product of the week - Asolo Distance M
Wild Country Ropeman 3 - recall notice!!
Product of the week - SALEWA Couna W/M
The Stickler
 Climbandmore special
The Last, but Not Least Decade
Humbles stays home - Maja Vidmar onsighted 8b+
Chris Sharma Quotes – Zen Thoughts
 Climbers
David Graham
 Fotogallery
Aleksandra Taistra in Rodellar - Gallery
TNF Kalymnos Climbing Festival
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockastars - Isolation Zone Gallery
Build Your Boulder Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Superfinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Media Brunch Gallery
Black&White Semifinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Backstage Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Qualification Round
Petzl Roc Trip in Zillertal
Top Climbers
Famous Climbers' Portraits
 Interviews
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
François Nicole on FA Amazonie 9a
Bernhard Schwaiger on bouldering
Phillip Schaal on Jade
Skyler Weekes - the King of the Dyno
Kilian Fischhuber on bouldering
Dave Graham
 Mags
Klettern 11/05
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
9a for Jacopo Larcher and another 8c+ for Mélissa Le Nevé
A run of good RRG luck continues – Mélissa Le Nevé + Cardwell and Ondra
A wave of great ascents and... downgrading in Red River Gorge
Adam Ondra knocks down Red River Gorge - 2 x 8c+ (9a) OS
FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+
Adam Ondra takes the lead in Red River Gorge and... flashes 5.15a/9a+ (?)
Another boulder conquests by Carlo Traversi and Dai Koyamada
Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer free Schwarze Madonna 8a+
Ashima in Red River Gorge – 2 x 5.14c/8c+ UPDATE
Carlo Traversi pushing himself in Magic Woods
Dai Koyamada's disappointment in Chironico
Shiraishi flashes Omaha Beach 5.14a/8b+
First Female 8B+ !! Starring Tomoko Ogawa
Entlinge for Niccolò Ceria
Echo from the rocks – Söderlund, Sharma, Harnden, Fineron
Stefan Glowacz frees Golden Shower
White Noise for Graham, Mind 2 Motion for Hong
FFA of Tetris 8A+
Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
Smith-Gobat and Astorga's records in Yosemite Valley
World Championships 2012 - main results
Jakob Schubert claims the World Champion title !!
Mélanie Sandoz takes Gold !!
World Championships 2012 - exciting Women's Bouldering Semi-final
World Championships 2012 - Saturday's finals
World Championships 2012 - we know the first finalists!
Arco Rock Junior
Baston la Baffe by Metteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma
Huber Brothers and Mario Walder successful on Mount Asgard
Stephan Siegrist at Cerro Stanhardt
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockstars - Semi-finals
adidas Rockstars 2012 - Qualification Round
Arco Rock Legends 2012
IFSC Lead World Cup - Briançon
IFSC WC Chamonix 2012 - Lead
IFSC WC in Speed Climbing - Chamonix 2012
adidas ROCKSTAR 2012
Bouldering World Cup - Vail
Get ready for the 2012 IFSC Lead World Cup !!
The Wheel of Life reapeted by Pringle
Another 8A+ for Alex Puccio - The Centaur
7th ascent of Jade - James Webb
Carlo Traversi downgrade Jade 8B+/C
Invasions 8B+ by Bernhard Schwaiger
Dai Koyamada on The Story of 2 Worlds
Dave Graham repeats Realization 9a+!
Dave Graham repeats Eclatamasters 9a
 Regions
Sella – the gem of Costa Blanca
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 4
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 3
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 2
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2020 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik