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 News/Last added

Mayan Smith-Gobat and Chantel Astorga shatter women’s speed record on
The Nose and...


On Sunday, September 23th, Mayan Smith-Gobat and partner Chantel Astorga climbed The Nose of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in 7 hours 26 minutes, smashing previous women’s speed records. Not satisfied, the pair proceeded to climb Half Dome, becoming the first all-female team to link-up both walls in less than 24 hours.

 

Chantel Astorga and Mayan Smith-Gobat on the top of El Cap
(photo: John Dickey)


Sunday’s ascent of The Nose was the team’s second record-breaking run up the route in less than a week. Four days prior, Smith-Gobat and Astorga shaved 9 minutes off the 10 hour 26 minute record held by Jos Meiris and Brett Quinn.

“We arrived in the Valley on the evening of the 17th, then did a practice run up the Nose on the 19th,” said Smith-Gobat. “During this climb it felt like we made a ton of errors and we also had to pass 5 parties on the lower part of the wall. We both felt like we were going super slow and were very surprised when we reached the top in 10:10, setting a new record on our practice run!"

On the 23rd, after three days of preparation and rest, Smith-Gobat and Astorga started up El Capitan at 3:10 am in hopes of avoiding the sun. Topping out just before noon, the pair headed to Half Dome to climb the Regular Northwest Face, which they started at 4:25 pm.                                                                                  

By the time they finished the long approach, “tiredness was definitely setting in,” Mayan added. “We were moving slower than we had hoped, but still made the top at 11:19 pm – 20:09 hours after starting The Nose!”

 

Mayan Smith-Gobat while breaking women's speed record on The Nose
(photo: John Dickey)


For Mayan, the new records represent a culminating achievement after breakout year that included a free ascent of El Cap’s Salathé Wall (5.13b/8a) and a gear-protected ascent of China Doll to the first anchors (5.13d/8b). It also marks her first foray into world of Yosemite big wall speed climbing.

“Speed climbing is not really something I have ever really wanted to focus on,” she said. “However, I find the men’s speed record of around 2.5 hours incredible and I do enjoy the feeling of moving fast. I started becoming inspired to set a new women's speed record on the Nose when I was in the Valley last fall and discovered that the long-standing [women’s] speed record [12 hours 15 minutes at the time] was barely even speed climbing.”                               
 
 
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Aleksandra Taistra in Rodellar - Gallery
TNF Kalymnos Climbing Festival
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Black&White Semifinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Backstage Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Qualification Round
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Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
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Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
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Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
World Championships 2012 - main results
Jakob Schubert claims the World Champion title !!
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World Championships 2012 - exciting Women's Bouldering Semi-final
World Championships 2012 - Saturday's finals
World Championships 2012 - we know the first finalists!
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Baston la Baffe by Metteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma
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Stephan Siegrist at Cerro Stanhardt
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
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Arco Rock Legends 2012
IFSC Lead World Cup - Briançon
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Get ready for the 2012 IFSC Lead World Cup !!
Honnold links Half Dome and The Nose in 8h
Lee Cossey Sends Three El Cap Free Routes
The Huber Brothers Set Another Speed Record
Remarkable repeats of Free Rider
Second free ascent of Southern Belle in 18 years
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Sella – the gem of Costa Blanca
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 4
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 3
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All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2020 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik
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