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In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
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The FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+


And of course, needless to say which lady is the author of the successful climb. New Zealander Mayan Smith-Gobat, known mostly for  her speed records in Yosemite Valley, after two years of the obsession and numerous attempts, sent the route on October 28th.



Mayan on Punks in the Gym (photo: Rich Crowder)


Punks in the Gym is a historical line set by Wolfgang Güllich in 1985. Back then, it was the hardest route in the world and simultaneously the model of 8b+ difficulties. It is still considered to be „the ultimate examination in climbing”. The New Zealander describes the line as follows:

“The rock is very hard, metamorphosed sandstone - so smooth it is almost like glass in places. It is the only real line running up a beautiful orange, free-standing pillar, about 70 or 80 feet long, overhung and with rounded bulbous features - kind of like baby bottoms!”



Mayan on Punks in the Gym (photo: Rich Crowder)

 
Mayan had spent few weeks in the area of Australian Mount Arapiles before she managed to get through with this legendary line.

"When I first tried Punks in the Gym, nearly 2 years ago, I thought that it was a climb that I would never be able to achieve because of its long reaches... To avoid the powerful shoulder presses I came up with a new sequence. This made the moves possible for me, but changed the route into an unrelenting crimp-fest! Since then I have invested a huge amount of time and effort into climbing this route - it feels incredible to have finally achieved this goal and lifelong dream of mine! Thanks to everyone who has supported me throughout this process." – she reports.



Punks in the Gym in all its glory (photo: Rich Crowder)

 

 
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All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2017 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik