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Trango Nameless Tower 6239m

Area: Baltoro Group, Central Karakoram, Pakistan


Trango Nameless Tower

1. Gran Diedre Desplomado, VI, 5.11 A4, 1100m , Michel Piola, Stéphane Schaffter (Swiss), Patrick Delale, Michel Fauquet (French), 1987 [article: Michel Piola, Danse Trango, “Mountain”  1988, January/February, No. 119, p. 20-24; note: AAJ 1988, p. 250-251]. In August 2006 the route was climbed almost free without three pitches at 5.13b by Swiss team of Francesco Pellanda, Giovanni Quirici and Christophe Steck.

2. British Route, VI, 5.10 A2, 1100m, Malcolm Howells, Martin Boysen, Joe Brown, Mo Anthoine (Great Britain), 1976, first route to the summit [articles: Martin Boysen, Last Trango, “Mountain” 1976, December, No. 52, p. 32-39; J. V. Anthoine, Trango conclusion, AJ 1977, p. 184-185; note: AAJ 1977, p. 266-268)]

3. Claire de Lune, VI, 5.10d A3, 1230m, Gabriel Besson, Claude-Alain Gaillan, David Maret, Frederic Roux (Swiss), 1999, approximately 900-1000m of the route was new, eight days snat on the wall (two fixed camps with portaledges), [note: AAJ 2000, p. 338-339]
4. Spanish Route, ED, 5.10d, A3, 1500m, Clavel, Miguel Ángel Garciá Gallego, Chiri Ros, Seiguer, 1989

5. Eternal Flame, VI, 7b+,A2, 900m, Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Christof Stiegler, Milan Sykora, 1989 [chapter in: Andy Fanshawe, Stephen Venables,  Himalaya Alpine-style, Seattle 1995; note: AAJ 1990, p. 287-288]. FFA (without 15m of A0): Denis Burdet, Nicolas Zambretti, Toni Arbones at 7c+ , one month in 2003. The A0 pitch was omitted on the right by Iker and Eneko Pou in 2005 at 8a but climbed only on top-rope [note: “Climb” 2006, November, p. 83-84].

6. Slovenian Route,  VI, 7a+ 900m, Slavko Èankar, Franèek Knez, Bojan Šrot, 1987, FFA: Kurt Albert, Wolfgang Güllich, Hartmut Münchenbach in 1988 [note: AAJ 1989, p. 252-254]

7. The Crux Zone, VI, 5.10a A4, 1100m, Kim Hyung-il, Yang Ki-heon, Yeon Yang-yun, Kim Pal-bong, Wang Dae-shik, Won Dae-shik, July 2006 [note: “Climb” 2006, November, p. 83]

See also
The Nameless Tower
Himalaya Alpine Style
 Climbandmore special
The Last, but Not Least Decade
Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany
Assalam Alaikum
Dodo Kopold on Assalam Alaikum
 News/Last added
FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+
Echo from the rocks – Söderlund, Sharma, Harnden, Fineron
Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
New routes and a virgin peak above the Trango Glacier
Swiss on Trango Tower
Slovenian Trango Towers 2006 Expedition
Torre Central
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