climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 Walls
Africa
Asia
North America
South America
Europe

Uli Biaho Tower
Grand Capucin
Petites Jorasses
Cerro Trinidad
Aguja St Exupery
 Walls

Changabang 6864m, south face


Region: Nanda Devi Group, Garhwal Himalaya, India

 

Few mountains in the Himalaya offer such a wealth of beautiful and demanding climbing.

Fanshawe Andy, Venables Stephen, Himalaya Alpine-Style

 

1. South Ridge, Ugo Manera, Lino Castiglia (Italy, leader: Renato Lingua), 1981 [AAJ 1982, p. 242-244;  Alpinist No. 1, p. 30]

2. The South Buttress VI 5.9 A3 WI4, 1700 m, Wojciech Kurtyka, Krzysztof Żurek (Poland), Alex MacIntyre, John Porter (England), 1978, alpine style. The route completed in eight day push after previously fixing the first six pitches in an attampt stopped by bad weather.  [AAJ 1979, p. 29-35; Mountain 1978, No. 64, p. 14; Mountain 1979, No. 65, p. 44-47, Climbing 1979, No. 55, p. 2-7; Alpinist No 1, p. 27].

3. The Southeast Face VI WI4, 1700m, Syd Clark, Dr. Jim Duff, Colin Reid, Alan Roberts, Ted Rogers (England), 1976, made in alpine style. They reached the summit after three days of effort from ABC by an ice-route [AAJ 1977, p. 249-252; Mountain 1976, No. 52, p. 13; AJ 1977, p. 239; Alpinist No. 1, p. 26].

4. The East Ridge, Chris Bonington (leader), Martin Boysen, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott (England), Balwant Sandhu, Chewang Tachei (India), 1974, the first ascent of the Changabang.  [AAJ 1975, p.91-84; AJ 1975, p. 239-240; Mountain No 37, p. 10; Alpinist  No 1, p. 24].

 

Articles:
Bonington Christian, Changabang, AAJ 1975, p. 81-84
Duff Jim, Changabang’s South Side: The Cumbrian Expedition, Alpinist No. 1, p. 26
Kurtyka Wojciech, Szkocka piħtka, Taternik 1979, No 3, p. 100-103
Manera Ugo, The Italian Route: The South Ridge, Alpinist No. 1, p. 30
Porter John, Bandaka and Changabang, American Alpine Journal 1979, p. 29-35
Porter John, Changabang South Buttress, Climbing 1979, No. 55, p. 2-7
Porter John, South Side Story, Mountain 1979, No. 65, p. 44-47
Porter John, The Sunny Side of the Mountain, Alpinist No 1, p. 27
Scott Douglas, Changabang, Alpine Journal 1975, p. 154-159
Scott Douglas, The First Ascent of Changabang: The East Ridge, Alpinist No. 1, p. 24


Books:
Bonington Chris, Scott Doug, Changabang, Heineman 1975
Fanshawe Andy, Venables Stephen, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder & Stoughton 1995

 

 

 
See also
 Books/Movies
The Shining Mountain
Himalayan Climber
Big Wall Climbing
Himalaya Alpine Style
 Climbers
Doug Scott, b. 1941, Great Britain
 Walls
Trango Nameless Tower
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2017 Piotr Drożdż - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik