In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
Brand news
Climbandmore special
News/Last added
North America
South America

Uli Biaho Tower
Grand Capucin
Petites Jorasses
Cerro Trinidad
Aguja St Exupery

Grand Capucin 3838 m,  South and South East Faces

Area: The Mont Blanc Massif


1. O sole mio, 6b+, 300m, Michel Piola, Pierre-Alain Steiner, 21-22 April 1984

2. Voie des Suisses, 6b+ (6b A0), 300m, C.Asper, M.Bron, M.Grossi, M.Morel, 24-26 July 1956

3. La tete sur le nuages, 6c A3, 300m, Dominique Brau-Mouret, solo 15-16 May 2000

4. De fil en aiguille, 8a, 300m, Jean-Luc Amstutz, Vincent Banderet, Gerard Long, Romain Vogler, 30 July 1988 and 27 July 1991

5. Le sourire de l’été, 6b A2, 300m, Gaetano Vogler, Romain Vogler, 24-25 August 1981

6. Flagrant délire, 6b A3, 400m, Jean-Marc Boivin, Michel Piola, 12-14 August 1983

7. Le voyage selon Gulliver, 7a/a+ 2xA0, 300m, Michel Piola, Jean-Paul Steiner, 18-19 August 1982

7a.  Panoramix, 7c, 25m, opened from above, Marco Pedrini, 22 July 1983

8. L’élixir d’Astaroth, 7a+ A0, 400m, Michel Piola, Jean-Paul Steiner, Romain Fogler, 18-20 August 1981

9. L’écho des alpages, 7a+, 400m, F.Burnier, G.Long, R.Robert, Romain Vogler, 1987, variation consisted of three different routes

10. Bonatti – Ghigo, 6c+/7a, 300m (from terasses), Walter Bonatti, L.Ghigo, 20-23 July 1951, FFA?

10a. Variation direct: Bonatti – Barzaghi, 6a, 100m

11. Po-éticomania, 7a+/b A2, 250m, F.Delisi, E.Jovane, 19 July and 1-2 August 1986

12. Voie Arnaud Petit, 8b, 400m, Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet , 1997, FFA: Alexander Huber, 17 July 2005

13. Directe des capucines, 6c, 400m, Eric Bellin, Jean-Marc Boivin, Martial Moioli, 9-10 July 1983

14. Hiver Russe, 6c A3, 400m, Michail Devi, Alexander Klenov, 13-15 February 1999

15. Alta Tension, 6c A3, 400m, M..Gallego, J.L.Gallego, 1983

16. Voyage hivernal, 6c A3, 400m, Aleksander Ruchkin, Rinat Zaitov, 13-17 February 1999

17. Eau et gaz à tous les étages, 6c+ A3, 400m, Jean-Marc Boivin, Francois Diaferia, Martial Moioli, 28-29 July 1984, combination of Alta Tension, Bonatti-Ghigo and 5 new pitches on the upper part

Routes not marked on the topo:

* Triple Direct, the combination of 3 routes: L’élixir d’Astaroth (3 pitches), Le voyage selon Gulliver (8 pitches) and Panoramix (25m)

* Via Lecco, G.Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri, Paolo Negri, 1968, now usually climbed as a part of  L’écho des alpages.

* Oddysey VI, 5.9 A4, Jim Bridwell, Giovani Groaz, 10-18 November 1999, start left of L’élixir d’Astaroth then to the terraces, afterwards between L’élixir d’Astaroth and the Bonatti- Ghigo route up to the junction with Via Lecco.

Photo: Jakub Radziejowski




News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2015 Piotr Dro┐d┐ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M│odecka, Janusz Szymik