climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 Walls
Africa
Asia
North America
South America
Europe

Uli Biaho Tower
Grand Capucin
Petites Jorasses
Cerro Trinidad
Aguja St Exupery
 Walls

Grand Capucin 3838 m,  South and South East Faces

Area: The Mont Blanc Massif

 


1. O sole mio, 6b+, 300m, Michel Piola, Pierre-Alain Steiner, 21-22 April 1984

2. Voie des Suisses, 6b+ (6b A0), 300m, C.Asper, M.Bron, M.Grossi, M.Morel, 24-26 July 1956

3. La tete sur le nuages, 6c A3, 300m, Dominique Brau-Mouret, solo 15-16 May 2000

4. De fil en aiguille, 8a, 300m, Jean-Luc Amstutz, Vincent Banderet, Gerard Long, Romain Vogler, 30 July 1988 and 27 July 1991

5. Le sourire de l’été, 6b A2, 300m, Gaetano Vogler, Romain Vogler, 24-25 August 1981

6. Flagrant délire, 6b A3, 400m, Jean-Marc Boivin, Michel Piola, 12-14 August 1983

7. Le voyage selon Gulliver, 7a/a+ 2xA0, 300m, Michel Piola, Jean-Paul Steiner, 18-19 August 1982

7a.  Panoramix, 7c, 25m, opened from above, Marco Pedrini, 22 July 1983

8. L’élixir d’Astaroth, 7a+ A0, 400m, Michel Piola, Jean-Paul Steiner, Romain Fogler, 18-20 August 1981

9. L’écho des alpages, 7a+, 400m, F.Burnier, G.Long, R.Robert, Romain Vogler, 1987, variation consisted of three different routes

10. Bonatti – Ghigo, 6c+/7a, 300m (from terasses), Walter Bonatti, L.Ghigo, 20-23 July 1951, FFA?

10a. Variation direct: Bonatti – Barzaghi, 6a, 100m

11. Po-éticomania, 7a+/b A2, 250m, F.Delisi, E.Jovane, 19 July and 1-2 August 1986

12. Voie Arnaud Petit, 8b, 400m, Arnaud Petit, Stephanie Bodet , 1997, FFA: Alexander Huber, 17 July 2005

13. Directe des capucines, 6c, 400m, Eric Bellin, Jean-Marc Boivin, Martial Moioli, 9-10 July 1983

14. Hiver Russe, 6c A3, 400m, Michail Devi, Alexander Klenov, 13-15 February 1999

15. Alta Tension, 6c A3, 400m, M..Gallego, J.L.Gallego, 1983

16. Voyage hivernal, 6c A3, 400m, Aleksander Ruchkin, Rinat Zaitov, 13-17 February 1999

17. Eau et gaz à tous les étages, 6c+ A3, 400m, Jean-Marc Boivin, Francois Diaferia, Martial Moioli, 28-29 July 1984, combination of Alta Tension, Bonatti-Ghigo and 5 new pitches on the upper part


Routes not marked on the topo:

* Triple Direct, the combination of 3 routes: L’élixir d’Astaroth (3 pitches), Le voyage selon Gulliver (8 pitches) and Panoramix (25m)

* Via Lecco, G.Cariboni, Casimiro Ferrari, Carlo Mauri, Paolo Negri, 1968, now usually climbed as a part of  L’écho des alpages.

* Oddysey VI, 5.9 A4, Jim Bridwell, Giovani Groaz, 10-18 November 1999, start left of L’élixir d’Astaroth then to the terraces, afterwards between L’élixir d’Astaroth and the Bonatti- Ghigo route up to the junction with Via Lecco.


Photo: Jakub Radziejowski

 

 

 

 
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2014 Piotr Dro┐d┐ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M│odecka, Janusz Szymik