Slovenian Trango Towers 2006 Expedition
In the second half of August 2006 a Slovenian group of 9 climbers visited the Trango area. The group consisted of four teams: girls party: Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovšek and Aleksandra Voglar, “veterans”: Silvo Karo and Andrej Grmovšek and “youngsters”: Matja¾ Jean and Matev¾ Kunšič, brothers Nejc and Aleš Česen . The expedition had bad luck with the weather conditions. It was raining and snowing most of the time, with only some “windows” of sunny days.
During their acclimatization days “The Veterans” made the first ascents of Uli Byapjun (ca 4800m, named by the team) and Uli Biaho Great Spire (5594m).
Silvo and I decided to climb rather then walk for our acclimatization. Instead of walking up and down dangerous and boring Trango gully we ran across the Trango glacier to the unnamed and unclimbed peak in Uli Biaho group. On 17th of August we climbed Warming Up Ridge (V, 6b, 450m, 700m long, 6h) to its summit and named it Uli Byapjun (ca 4800m). We were back in base camp for dinner. After a day of rest we headed to Uli Biaho group again. We found the way to the base of unclimbed Uli Biaho Great Spire (5594m) on our first climb. After afternoon approach through big gully and bivouac we started at the col in early morning of 20th of August. We climbed via NE wall and S ridge to the rocky summit. The route Three Hundred Eggs (V+, 6b+, 600m, 800 long, 8h) was named after ordering more food to our cook.
After only a day of rest, on the 23rd of August the team climbed Great Trango (6286m) by normal route. Because of the bad weather the following days were used for “craging” on the walls above the base camp.
The best of our “base climbs” was the first ascent of Piranski Zaliv (V+, 7a obl. R, 650m, 800m long, 8h) on the 31st of August on the wall above base camp, which we christened Base Camp Slabs (cca. 4700m). All our first ascents were done without bolts, we used some pitons for few rappels only..
Regarding the bad weather conditions and the fact that most of the high summits was packed with snow Karo and Grmovšek decided to attempt fast ascent of Nameless Tower (6251m). They managed to make one-day ascent of the legendary Eternal Flame. On the way to the summit they met other Slovenian teams. All of them succeeded in reaching the summit.
The women team started from climbing the Great Trango Tower (6287m) by the Selter-Woolum route on the north flank (ice and snow up to 80°, mainly 40°-60°) on the 23rd of August. Also during the acclimatization time they free climbed the route Karakoram Khush (6a/b, 300m) on Garda Peak (ca 4700m), and repeated the route on Base Camp Slabs Oceano Trango (6a/b, 300m) that they prolonged with two pitches to the logical tower Pinocchio (5, 55m and 6-, 60m). The next attempt was climbing Eternal Flame (6c A2, 1000m) on Trango Nameless Tower (6251m) in one push and alpine style.
We started from the south col and in three days we made the first all female ascent of Trango Nameless Tower, in alpine style. During these three days Trango turned into Slovenian tower, because there were four Slovenian parties on it, all four successful in the end.
Eternal flame, VI, 6c, A2, M5, 1000m, Trango Nameless Tower, 6251m (6239m)
first all female ascent of the mountain, alpine style; 7– 9th of September 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovšek, Aleksandra Voglar
American route, ice and snow up to 80°, mainly 40°-60°, Great Trango Tower, 6286 m
23th of August 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovšek, Aleksandra Voglar
Karakoram Khush, IV, 6a/b, 300m, Garda Peak (4700m)
Slovenian girls added a free variation to the start of the climb; 26th of August 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovšek, Aleksandra Voglar
Oceano Trango, IV, 6a/b, 300m, Base Camp Slabs - Pinocchio (ca 4350m)
added two new pitches to the top of tower that they christianed Pinocchio; 29th of August 2006; Tina Di Batista, Tanja Grmovšek, Aleksandra Voglar
TEAM SILVO KARO AND ANDREJ GRMOVŠEK ASCENTS
Warming Up Ridge V, 6b, 450m, 700m long, Uli Byapjun, ca 4800m
FA, FFA, first ascent of the peak; 17th of August 2006; Andrej Grmovšek, Silvo Karo
Three Hundred Eggs V+, 6b+, 600m, 850m long, Uli Biaho Great Spire, 5594m
FA, FFA, first ascent of the mountain; 20th of August 2006; Andrej Grmovšek, Silvo Karo
Piranski Zaliv V+, 7a, obl., 650m, 800m long, Base Camp Slabs, ca 4700m
FA, FFA; 31st of August 2006; Andrej Grmovšek, Silvo Karo
Eternal Flame VI, 7b, A2, M5, 1000m, Trango Nameless Tower, 6239m, (20h)
20 hours of climbing from south col to the top; 8th of September 2006; Andrej Grmovšek, Silvo Karo
American Route, ice and snow up to 80°, mainly 40°-60°, Great Trango Tower, 6286 m
23rd of August 2006; Andrej Grmovšek, Silvo Karo
Oceano Trango IV, 6a/b, 250m, 300m long, Base Camp Slabs
26th of August 2006; Andrej Grmovšek, Silvo Karo
Find the report of the "youngsters" team soon on ClimbAndMore.com