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New routes and a virgin peak
above the Trango Glacier

A Polish Sage Symfonia Polish Karakorum Expedition, Pakistan 2006 operated in the area of Trango Towers in the Karakoram between the end of August and 20th of September. The climbing team included Maciej Ciesielski, Jakub Radziejowski and Wawrzyniec Zakrzewski.
Unfortunately, at first the weather was pretty bad. Only after a couple of days, the team, taking advantage of an afternoon sunny spell, managed to climb a warm-up route on nearby slabs above the base camp - Oceano Trango (6a, OS, 300m, 31st August).

On 5th September, the improving weather enabled us to climb a new route on a (probably) unclimbed peak to the left of Garda Peak. We called the route PIA - for Pakistan International Airlines, which is sometimes read by foreigners coming to Pakistan as "Pakistan Inshallah Airlines" or "Please Inform Allah". We really don’t know why…
The length of the route is around 540 meters, and the grade is 6c+ (climbed onsight), with one A0 place. The A0 section is a pendulum from a crack stuffed with mud to a neighbouring crack on the left. We called the virgin summit Garden Peak because of rich vegetation on the wall, and to honour neighbouring Garda Peak. The route offers fine climbing, mostly on good rock.

 

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See also
 Books/Movies
Trango:
The Nameless Tower
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Assalam Alaikum
 Interviews
Dodo Kopold on Assalam Alaikum
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Swiss on Trango Tower
Slovenian Trango Towers 2006 Expedition
 Walls
Trango Nameless Tower
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