Today, the Bercy Arena in Paris was just bursting at the seams as Sunday’s competition program included four long awaited finals. It all started with the final round of the Women’s Bouldering (check out the coverage
) then progressed to the third Paraclimbing final to eventually end with Men’s Lead and Speed. The fans of lead climbing expected a great show as the final six included brightest stars of the current lead competition scene out of which there were at least five serious candidates to the World Champion title.
The Men’s final route ran similarly to the yesterday’s line set for the women. It was said that its grade oscillated somewhere around 8c
. It consisted of 55 holds put into four distinctive parts. The route began with sloppy holds leading to a butterfly-like set up features and went slightly to the right along the overhanging full of blue volumes. There, the first crux section was located. It was powerful enough to eliminate Hyunbin Min
of Korea and one of the favorites, representing Japan, Sachi Amma
. The audience held its breath as the Japanese unexpectedly fell off the wall after making everyone comfortable with his fluid and solid way of climbing. Amma looked like he himself couldn’t tell what had just happened and as he reached the ground with a grimace of disappointment on his face, he stared at the wall scratching his head in disbelief. The same point of the wall was reached by Romain Desgranges
. The host’s representative who has had a difficult competition season so far, is claimed to have serious problems with establishing the right mindset during comps. The rumour has it that before the World Championships the French National Team members were even sent to a special camp where they were forbidden to use mobile phones or computers. The one week lasting camp was a total break from climbing and was fully devoted to the improvement of athletes’ mental strength and breathing techniques. Seemed like it did not help Romain that much as he nervously managed to do only five more moves and fell while reaching the first pocket of the roof. Hopefully, the French will soon be able to overcome his weakness.