It’s all in your mind:
Mental Training Quotes
You will climb only as high as your mind lets you.
Doing a route at the absolute limit of the possible demands and encourages a coordination of all peripheral factors. It is, at the same time, a sign of joy and contentment with that moment, perhaps even a mirror of the equlibrium in your inner spirit, a mirror of a liberated state of mind.
Relaxation, acceptance, and keeping open mind are key. First of all, peak performance isn’t possible if one is not relaxed, and if one is going to stay relaxed they must simply accept problems when they arise and decide to solve them. If I can’t do a move I merely accept that I haven’t discovered the right sequence, instead of trying the same sequence over and over or just quitting. I will try to do it 20 or 30 different ways, making subtle changes in body position and fot placement, until I find something that does work. That’s what I mean by keeping an open mind.
I think that drive and mental strength are the factors that distinguish ordinary for extraordinary achievements. In competition, it is not the physically strongest climbers who win, but rather the mentally strongest.
[…] I realized that a climber’s ability can usually be judged by the point at which he gives up. Beginners fall off when they don’t know what to do, advanced climbers when they get pumped, but world-class climbers like Jerry Moffatt climb far beyond the phisical limitations of their muscles.
One aspect is strength, one is technique and one is the mind. And I think that the mind is the most powerful, technique is second and physical strength third. How many people do you know who can do one-arm pull-ups, but can’t do even relatively easy boulder problems? How many people do you know who can’t one-arm hang off a half-ich edge, bu tcan climb 5.13?