Josune Bereziartu New Mixed Route
Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi opened a new mixed route in the Pyrenees on the March 14th. The new route is located on the north face of Peña Telera (2.764 mts) and it was called Frensi. The first part of the route offered difficulties up to M6/7 followed by 45º snow hills, the second part had a gully with a small 90º ice fall.
“Unfortunately we didn´t get the best snow/ice conditions. Snow was not too transformed so sometimes instead of ice the snow made us have more difficulties than we thought” said Josune.
For example, when they arrived to the first overhanging terrain, they hoped to bypass the overhangs by a located to the side thin ice smears, but due to lack of ice they had to climb overhanging dihedrals.
The couple onsighted all, but second pitch (M4+), where Rikar took a factor 2 fall. Recalling the fall Josune said “A crampon slipped and he pulled out the micro cam that protected the first meters bellow him and both were hanging up form just one point of the belay (an axe) the other two points, both pitons, came out by the violence of the fall. One big rock move over and made that the two pitons came out... Immediately, we tried to repair and recompose the belay. It was a FRENCY time!!!!!!.”
Josune and Rikar did not place any bolts on the route, their main pro included cams and nuts, as well as couple pitons and four ice screws.