climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Patrick Edlinger has passed away
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
 News/Last added

Josune Bereziartu New Mixed Route

Frensi - Josune Bereziartu New Mixed Route

Josune Bereziartu and Rikar Otegi opened a new mixed route in the Pyrenees on the March 14th. The new route is located on the north face of Peña Telera (2.764 mts) and it was called Frensi.  The first part of the route offered difficulties up to M6/7 followed by 45º snow hills, the second part had a gully with a small 90º ice fall.

“Unfortunately we didn´t get the best snow/ice conditions. Snow was not too transformed so sometimes instead of ice the snow made us have more difficulties than we thought” said Josune.
For example, when they arrived to the first overhanging terrain, they hoped to bypass the overhangs by a located to the side thin ice smears, but due to lack of ice they had to climb overhanging dihedrals. 

Frensi - Josune Bereziartu New Mixed Route

The couple onsighted all, but second pitch (M4+), where Rikar took a factor 2 fall. Recalling the fall Josune said “A crampon slipped and he pulled out the micro cam that protected the first meters bellow him and both were hanging up form  just one point of the belay (an axe) the other two points, both  pitons, came out by the violence of the fall. One big rock move over and made that the two pitons came out... Immediately, we tried to repair and recompose the belay. It was a FRENCY time!!!!!!.”
Josune and Rikar did not place any bolts on the route, their main pro included cams and nuts, as well as couple pitons and four ice screws.

 
See also
 Climbandmore special
The Last, but Not Least Decade
 Climbers
Josune Bereziartu, b.1972, Spain
 Fotogallery
Top Climbers
Famous Climbers' Portraits
Arco Rock Legends 2006
 Interviews
Josune Bereziartu - Part I
 Mags
Desnivel 07/07
Góry 09/06
Góry 06/06
 News/Last added
Another 8c+ for Josune Bereziartu
Rock Master 2006 - Results
Ociepka sends 8c
Bereziartu and Otegui make their first free ascent in the Pyrenees
 Training
Josune Bereziartu on Training
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2017 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik