Harrington Joins 8c Women Club
On January 27 Emily Harrington repeated Burning Down the House 5.14b (8c) at Jailhouse (Senora, California). The route had been established by her coach Justen Sjong. Emily worked the route for 8 days, making about 20 attempts. With this ascent she becomes the second American woman to redpoint “the magic grade” (after Beth Rodden who put up The Opptimist 5.14b at Smith Rock in 2004).
In a special comment for climbandmore.com Emily said:
I was very excited when I did Burning Down the House, it was one of the best climbing days I've ever had!!! After I redpointed my project (the 5/14b/8c - Burning Down the House), I also flashed an 8a+ and fell on the last move trying to flash an 8b. I was heartbroken that I fell on the very last move, but then I remembered about all the other things I had done that day and I was happy (I redpointed the 8b the next day anyway). The cliff is called Jailhouse and it's big ampitheater with very steep, blocky climbing similar to Rifle, only longer routes (Burning Down the House was about 33 meters). I was surprised at how quickly I was able to climb 14b (about 20 tries), and I think I'm just beginning to realize what I'm capable of. It's all about believing I can do it.