Spanish weather conditions finally favorable –
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma make the most of them
After hot and sultry summer during which many spots were closed temporarily due to fire hazard, it is high time there were some climbing-favorable weather conditions in one of the Europe’s most popular sport climbing area for the fall-winter season. Shortly after it got a little bit cooler, we’ve been receiving some great news from two Spanish top places we’d rather be right now – Santa Linya and Siurana.
The first location has been visited by young, wild and ambitious sister of a well-known Norwegian competitor, Magnus Midtboe. At first, Hannah was associated mostly with her older brother but it turned out quickly that she was becoming an independent climber able to set her own goals. As opposed to Magnus, Hannah’s been recently focusing mostly on rock rope climbing, however, it is worth mentioning that she was also successful as a competitor – among others, four years ago, at the age of 18, she won a bronze medal of the bouldering event during the European Championships.
The fact that Hannah feels well in the sort of climbing offered by the spot of Santa Linya was visible already during last years. Hannah made there most of her best rope ascents: Fabelita,Rollito Sharma extension and Ingravids Eskerps, all graded 8c. This winter, she decided to push herself further and finally managed to send her last year’s project La Novena Puerta 8c+. Let us just remind you that on the young Norwegian’s tick list there are also great boulder ascents including 8A problems sent in Swiss spots few years ago. No wonder that the athletic style of climbing in the cave suits her so well. We want more! :-)
Hannah Midtboe on La Novena Puerta 8c+
(photo: Henning Wang)
After long and tiring 2012 Lead World Cup series, Sachi Amma, the winner of the general ranking, has definitely deserved a break from training routine and for his well-earned holiday he’s chosen the picturesque area of Siurana. Most probably, not because of its breathtaking views but for the sake of some well-known extreme climbs that the area has to offer. During last years, the Japanese athlete got through with Chris Sharma’s two 9a+’s Pachamama and Papichulo, both located in Oliana. Now, the time has come for famous La Rambla.
Sachi Amma on Pachamama 9a+
(photo: Jure Breceljnik)
Originally, the route was established by Alexander Huber in 1994 and back then, it was graded "only" 8c+. The extended version prolongs the line for another seven meters and is a result of Ramón Julian Puigblanque’s numerous attempts made in 2003. Altogether, La Rabla consists of more than 90 moves that gives about 45 meters of climbing. Sachi devoted to the route a little bit less time and energy that the Spaniard: it took him only 5 attempts and 7 days of work. Rumor has it that the 23 year old’s another goal is nothing but Golpe de Estado 9b... Can’t wait!
Sources: 8a.nu, climbing.com