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Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Patrick Edlinger has passed away
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
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The first female ascent of an 8B+ boulder starring Tomoko Ogawa


We’ve been waiting long enough and here it is… first female ascent of bouldering 8B+ difficulty! It was obvious that sooner or later one of the top female boulderers would reach for such difficulties. The remaining question was which one of them? Some bet on rock master Alex Puccio, others on unbeatable competitor Anna Stöhr. In the game there was also super talented British Shauna Coxsey and unpredictable Angie Payne. It wouldn’t be a surprise if the first female 8B+ ascent was made by young Ashima Shiraishi. Meanwhile, to everyone’s astonishment, the victor’s palm fell to rather unknown to wider climbing audience, Tomoko Ogawa, who few days ago sent Dai Koyamada’s Catharsis in Shiobara. The 34-year-old Japanese spent the last three years trying to get through with this demanding roof problem. Previously, on her list there were only two boulders graded 8A+ (Dai Koyamada’s Karamba and Yuji Hirayama’s Mutante) as well as several 8As. As far as we know, to date Catharsis was repeated only by Daniel Woods, who managed to send the boulder in his second go and confirmed the grade, describing the problem as follows: „Amazing roof climb, my style of climbing. Direct horizontal power climbing on pockets!”. Check out the movie of this historical ascent.

Tomoko Ogawa on Catharsis (photo: Nagao)

Now as the ice has been broken, seems like another female ascent on that level is only the matter of time. Among the candidates who already sent some 8B boulders are 11-year-old Ashima Shiraishi (Steady Plums direct, Crown of Aragon, Fragile Steps), Angie Payne (The Automator),
Anna Stöhr (The Riverbed), Dorothea Karalus (Fragile Steps). The other female boulderer also deserving her place in this exclusive women’s 8B club is Austrian Barbara Zangerl, who was definitely the one who pushed the grade considerably higher for the first time in the history of the sport by making the ascent of Pura Vida. The boulder graded originally 8B was only afterwards downgraded to 8A+/B.



See also
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Product of the week - Asolo Distance M
Product of the week - SALEWA Couna W/M
The Stickler
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockastars - Isolation Zone Gallery
Build Your Boulder Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Superfinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Media Brunch Gallery
Black&White Semifinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Backstage Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Qualification Round
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
Bernhard Schwaiger on bouldering
Phillip Schaal on Jade
Skyler Weekes - the King of the Dyno
Kilian Fischhuber on bouldering
Klettern 11/05
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Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
A run of good RRG luck continues – Mélissa Le Nevé + Cardwell and Ondra
Another boulder conquests by Carlo Traversi and Dai Koyamada
Ashima in Red River Gorge – 2 x 5.14c/8c+ UPDATE
Carlo Traversi pushing himself in Magic Woods
Dai Koyamada's disappointment in Chironico
Shiraishi flashes Omaha Beach 5.14a/8b+
Entlinge for Niccolò Ceria
White Noise for Graham, Mind 2 Motion for Hong
FFA of Tetris 8A+
World Championships 2012 - main results
Mélanie Sandoz takes Gold !!
World Championships 2012 - exciting Women's Bouldering Semi-final
World Championships 2012 - Saturday's finals
World Championships 2012 - we know the first finalists!
Arco Rock Junior
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockstars - Semi-finals
adidas Rockstars 2012 - Qualification Round
Arco Rock Legends 2012
adidas ROCKSTAR 2012
Bouldering World Cup - Vail
The Wheel of Life reapeted by Pringle
Another 8A+ for Alex Puccio - The Centaur
7th ascent of Jade - James Webb
Carlo Traversi downgrade Jade 8B+/C
Invasions 8B+ by Bernhard Schwaiger
Dai Koyamada on The Story of 2 Worlds
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