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 Mick Fowler, b. 1956, Great Britain
Without doubt he’s the finest mixed climber I’ve ever climbed with. He’s got this wonderful ability to rock climb and has a good nose for protection. But his great strength is being able to laugh when he’s frightened. That’s something I learned from him and it changed the way I look at climbing. |
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Dean Potter, b. 1972, USA
Soloing for me is about being completely in the moment, not worrying about the past or future, but just being right here, right now. That’s why I do it. |
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Steph Davis, b. 1973, USA
There’s a poem by William Butler Yeats called ‘Slouching Towards Bethlehem’. And he says ‘The best lack all conviction and the worst are filled with passionate intensity’, which is of course opposite of how things should be. And for me, climbing is about passion and intensity. |
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Wojciech „Voytek” Kurtyka, b. 1947, Poland
Mountaineering is a complex and unique way of life, interweaving elements of sport, art and mysticism. Success or failure depends on the ebb and flow of immense inspiration. Detecting a single rule governing this energy is difficult – it arises and vanishes like the urge to dance and remains as mysterious as the phenomenon of life itself. |
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Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany
The 15th anniversary of Wolfgang Güllich's death will be celebrated in August. To commemorate the name of the greatest sport climber of the 20th century ClimbandMore presents his profile. |
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John Gill, b. 1937, USA
Each year, the approach of summer rejuvenates me. Academic activities and their attendant social vexations are swept by a cleansing mental tide, and I contemplate the rhapsodic days of solitary climbing that lie ahead. In the best spirit of play I remove myself from undertakings that have purpose, and I focus only on one that has meaning. |
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Josune Bereziartu, b.1972, Spain
It was one of the “breaking barriers” especially for my mind. Hiena and my first 8c route (Honky Tonky) were both hardest times in my climbing career that I remember. After doing Hiena, 8a, my mind got free and without pressure I was capable to climb many 8a´s really quickly …Even the first 8a+ came relatively easy… |
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Lynn Hill, b. 1961, USA
I have been all over the world and have had the fortune of doing things with many special people, some famous, some anonymous. But the biggest little hero I’ve ever known is Lynn Hill. The rest of us are just holding her rope. - John Long, 2002 |
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Steve House, b. 1970, USA
It’s not about ‘summit or plummet’. It is about belief in one’s skill, and calling upon one’s experience as a resource. Plus, it keeps me from being exposed for too long to the hazards of the mountains. Steve House about light-and-fast FA’s. |
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Todd Skinner, 1958-2006, USA
I would disagree with any statement that would imply that we are approaching any limit. In five years there will be climbs so hard that no one today is dreaming of them. 5.10, 5.11 and 5.12 are passé – they might be as well 5.8. The goal is far beyond. (Interview, 1985) |
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Jeff Lowe, b. 1950, USA
If you're concentrating on climbing, you can't be concentrating on money and cars and houses and wives and boyfriends. And when you come back to deal with them, you have a better view of their reliative importance. Climbing puts things in perspective again. |
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Doug Scott, b. 1941, Great Britain
Climbing is about pioneering new routes, exploring new ground, facing the unknown. Those hooked on the eight-thousanders will miss all that. They are wasting the best years of their climbing lives. |
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Stefan Glowacz, b. 1965, Germany
I see rock climbing not just as sport, but a way of life. Sometimes I can just sit at the bottom of a cliff, look around and feel good. I don’t even have to climb. |
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Johnny Dawes, b. 1963, Great Britain
Johnny Dawes is a rock’n’roll guru, a dancer in the vertical plane. If it were just our souls that went climbing then he would be the best there’s ever been.
Ed Douglas |
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Ron Kauk, b. 1958, USA
"As a teenager, Astroman represented to me the ultimate opportunity to challenge oneself on many levels. Mentally, physically, and, without a doubt, spiritually. […] Magic is the only word to describe it, climbing pitch after pitch of the most perfect, beautifully sculpted granite in the world." |
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