Wojciech „Voytek” Kurtyka, b. 1947, Poland
Mountaineering is a complex and unique way of life, interweaving elements of sport, art and mysticism. Success or failure depends on the ebb and flow of immense inspiration. Detecting a single rule governing this energy is difficult – it arises and vanishes like the urge to dance and remains as mysterious as the phenomenon of life itself.
If there is such a thing as spiritual materialism, it is displayed in the urge to possess the mountains rather than to unravel and accept their mysteries.
2003
Imperium Kontratakuje (The Empire Strikes Back) VI.5+ (French 8a), Łaskawiec, the Prądnik Valley, 8a rock climb at the age of 56!
Poniekąd Donikąd V+ A2+, 250m, Jarząbkowa Turnia, the Slovakian Tatra Mountains, New route in winter, with Marcin Michałek
2001
Biacherahi Central Tower ca 5700m, Karakoram, Pakistan, south face, new route, with Taeko and Yasushi Yamanoi (Japan) [note: AAJ 2002]
1997
Nanga Parbat, Mazeno Ridge, attempt, with Erhard Loretan (Swiss), climbed almost half the ridge in a day and half, turned back in perfect weather
1996-2002
Several attempts on the north face of Kang Tengri 6571m, with different partners
1995
Losar, 700-m icefall above Namchee Bazaar, Nepal, ascent, with Maciej Rysula [article: Voytek Kurtyka, Losar, Alpinist, Autumn 2003, No 4]
1994
K2 8611m, west face, attempt, with Carlos Buhler, Krzysztof Wielicki, their highpoint was 6650m
1992
Gacopyrz Now VIII+, The Kazalnica Mieguszowiecka Wall, the Polish Tatra Mountains, new route, with Andrzej Marcisz
1993
Nanga Parbat 8125m, Mazeno Ridge, expedition, with Doug Scott, never tried the route – Scott was swept by avalanche, seriously injuring his ankle
Chiński Maharadża (Chinese Maharaja) VI.5 (French: 7c+), Dolina Bolechowicka, the Polish Jura, freesolo ascent, one of the most serious freesolo ascents in Polish crags to date, because of the tricky character of the 25-meter line, done at the age of 46
Shock the Monkey VI.5+/6 (8a/a+) RP, Pochylec, The Prądnik Valley, his hardest rock climb
1991
Łamaniec VI.5 (French: 7c+), Raptawicka Tower, the Western Polish Tatras, first ascent, one of the hardest bolted rock climbs in the Tatras
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