In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
Brand news
Climbandmore special
News/Last added
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Patrick Edlinger has passed away
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
 News/Last added

Huber Brothers and Mario Walder
successful on Mount Asgard

Thomas and Alexander Huber and Mario Walder have just returned from a redpoint team free ascent of Mount Asgard on Baffin Island. Their focus was on conquering "Bavarian Direct" (7/A3), which was first climbed in 1996 technical-style by six Bavarians who are friends of the Huber Brothers. On 9 August - after 28 pitches up to grade 10 and more than ten days on the rock face - the three climbers stood atop the South Tower of Mount Asgard.

The trio on the top of Mount Asgard

For their free ascent they climbed as closely as possible to the original route, making variations wherever necessary along the "Bavarian Direct". Three years ago a Belgian expedition climbed this route. Nico and Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva, Stéphane Hanssens and Silvia Vidal managed to free-climb all but one pitch of the route. They named their line along the "Bavarian Direct" "Belgarian". Reason enough for the Bavarians to plan this expedition to Baffin to solve the last question mark hanging over this extraordinary route.

Thomas Huber climbing "Bavarian Direct", Mount Asgard

Due to the variable weather conditions, including snow, they had to abandon their original plan of climbing the route in a single push, returning to base camp again and again. Following several days and numerous attempts at the 700-metre-high wall, they finally succeeded with a team free ascent. They assessed their line on the "Bavarian Direct", the "Belgarian" and two “Huber pitches” as grade 5.13b, 8a+, 10- and rated it "an awesome wall, very compact, best quality rock face and technically very challenging!"

The base camp at the foot of Mount Asgard

Alexander sums up the expedition: "The Asgard did us no favours, only the last few metres were really easy… but that's always the way: the tougher the challenge the more vivid the lasting the memories" Thomas is also delighted with the expedition to Baffin. His verdict: "An amazing time on an amazing rock face. This route belongs among the top routes on El Capitan!"


Location: South Tower, Mt. Asgard, Auyuittuq National Park, Baffin Island, Canada
Route: Bavarian Direct - Belgarian (Bavarian-Belgian Friendship)
Style: Redpoint Team Free Ascent
Grade: 10 -/ 8a+ / 5.13b
Length: Approach wall 250 metres; Main rock face 450 metres (difficult section), Summit climb 250 metres (5.10c, 7,6b)
Initial ascent: 1996; technical (7, A3); Christian Schlesener,  Mane Reichelt,  Luca Guscelli, Bernd Adler, Markus Bruckbauer and Tom Grad.
Variant route: 2009, "Belgarian" (5.13b/A1) Olivier Favresse, Nicolas Favresse, Stéphane Hanssens, Sean Villanueva and Silvia Vidal

See also
 Brand news
Wild Country Helium - recall notice!!
Product of the week - Asolo Distance M
Wild Country Ropeman 3 - recall notice!!
Product of the week - SALEWA Couna W/M
 Climbandmore special
Humbles stays home - Maja Vidmar onsighted 8b+
Aleksandra Taistra in Rodellar - Gallery
TNF Kalymnos Climbing Festival
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockastars - Isolation Zone Gallery
Build Your Boulder Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Superfinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Media Brunch Gallery
Black&White Semifinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Backstage Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Qualification Round
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
François Nicole on FA Amazonie 9a
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
9a for Jacopo Larcher and another 8c+ for Mélissa Le Nevé
A run of good RRG luck continues – Mélissa Le Nevé + Cardwell and Ondra
A wave of great ascents and... downgrading in Red River Gorge
Adam Ondra knocks down Red River Gorge - 2 x 8c+ (9a) OS
FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+
Adam Ondra takes the lead in Red River Gorge and... flashes 5.15a/9a+ (?)
Another boulder conquests by Carlo Traversi and Dai Koyamada
Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer free Schwarze Madonna 8a+
Ashima in Red River Gorge – 2 x 5.14c/8c+ UPDATE
Shiraishi flashes Omaha Beach 5.14a/8b+
Echo from the rocks – Söderlund, Sharma, Harnden, Fineron
Stefan Glowacz frees Golden Shower
Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
Smith-Gobat and Astorga's records in Yosemite Valley
World Championships 2012 - main results
Jakob Schubert claims the World Champion title !!
Mélanie Sandoz takes Gold !!
World Championships 2012 - exciting Women's Bouldering Semi-final
World Championships 2012 - Saturday's finals
World Championships 2012 - we know the first finalists!
Arco Rock Junior
Baston la Baffe by Metteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma
Stephan Siegrist at Cerro Stanhardt
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockstars - Semi-finals
adidas Rockstars 2012 - Qualification Round
Arco Rock Legends 2012
IFSC Lead World Cup - Briançon
IFSC WC Chamonix 2012 - Lead
IFSC WC in Speed Climbing - Chamonix 2012
Get ready for the 2012 IFSC Lead World Cup !!
Sella – the gem of Costa Blanca
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 4
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 3
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 2
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2020 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik