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 Ines Papert on Camilotto Pellesier
Actually the fact that Rainer came with us turned out to be an additional motivation for me. He was on the top, crying: ‘Go, go, go!!!’ and my friend Wasti Schöndorfer was on the belay below, shouting: ‘Come on, come on, go, go!’ So there were two supporters and it really helped me. |
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Ines Papert About IWC 2006
"Now also female competitors have to climb very long and very overhanging routes, with swinging icicles and very hard technical sections [...] I am exited about good routes - that’s one of the main reasons for taking part in comps." |
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Martina Èufar about Vizija 8c
It is a great line on the central part of Misja Peè which has a great name. The name of the route is very important to me, and Vizija somehow sounds optimistic for my future climbing. I am joking a bit now, but how the title in a magazine “Martina's Total Eclipse” (it's a name of another 8c I tried) would sound like? Martina's Vision is much better, isn't it? |
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Du¹an “Stoupa” Janák
Very often the hardest pitches are not these with the highest “number”. So our universal grade 9+AF is our little resistance to this mainstream. Of course, the competition is inevitable and I like “sport factor” in climbing. But I don´t want to be a “slave” of climbing modes and hunter for the “numbers”. OS or RP ascent of some route is only the last step but often not the hardest. |
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Dodo Kopold on Assalam Alaikum
Our aim was to climb the south face of Great Trango, a wall perfect for alpine climbing, but extremely dangerous in bad weather. If the weather gets worse and it starts snowing, it can be a problem to go back. We had known this very well before we started. |
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Dave Graham
It’s either a benchmark of a 9a route or an 8c+ route […] The question of grade now would be an interesting one, because if Action Direct is the first 8c+ done, then everything else in the world would change - everything. |
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Eugeni Krivosheitsev about his mixed climbing adventure
It is very difficult to keep a top position now, but I am still doing my best. I train, I practice yoga, I work on my physical condition all the time, and, what's most important, I still have fun doing what I do. I still have motivation to reach my goal, and I still feel like doing this. |
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Fred Nicole on Amandla 8C, ROCKLANDS
Luckily my sponsors support me for my way of life and not my performances. I would not feel respectful of my climbing or of my sponsors if I had to do things just for publicity! |
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Steph Davis on Freerider
I like to switch my focus. For me, that is the most interesting thing in climbing, never staying in one category. Having made this achievement in the Valley, my thoughts are turning towards other goals again. |
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Second ascent of Lowe's Route on Trapecio
Andean mountains are ideal for fast lightweight ascents which I like most; you can climb something good in 3 weeks and that goes well with my regular job. and I like the way of life down there: I've got many friends in Peru and I feel there almost like at home. |
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Tomá¹ Mrázek and Helena Lipenska
When I was starting climbing, everybody kept telling me that I could make myself "someone" in this sport only by training in France with the French. But I knew what I wanted, and I promised myself that I would be the best. |
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Andrej Grmovsek on free ascent of Camilotto-Pellesier on Cima Grande
North walls contain many, many hard routes, once the hardest aid and today the hardest free routes of the Alps, and on those walls the history of rock wall climbing was written in the last century. So the Tre Cime are special, but they are also hard - a lot of loose and damp rock, cold temperatures. |
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Martina Èufar
I will always remember the moment I came from behind a corner and saw the wall for the first time. "WAW!!" A really amazing gorge with overhanging, colourful walls. But when climbing I didn't feel the overhanging so much. It was great to hang on belays with nothing but the air beneath! |
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David Lama
I think you have to listen to your body! If anyone says: that´s the best endurance training - he´s wrong; it´s the best for him, and that doesn´t mean that´s the best for me! |
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