In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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Mick Fowler, b. 1956, Great Britain
Dean Potter, b. 1972, USA
Steph Davis, b. 1973, USA
Wojciech „Voytek” Kurtyka, b. 1947, Poland
Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany

Lynn Hill, b. 1961, USA


Scarface 5.14a, Smith Rocks, first female ascent.

Bravo les Filles VI 5.13d A0, 13 pitches, Tsaranoro Massif, Madasgascar, first ascent, with Nancy Feagin, Kath Pyke,  and Beth Rodden, probably the most difficult rock climb ever put up by a team of women


Midnight Lightning V8, Camp 4, Yosemite Valley, first female ascent.

King Cobra V9/10, Camp 4, Yosemite Valley, first female ascent.

To Bolt or Not to Be 5.14a, Smith Rocks, Oregon, first female ascent, second 8b+ climb by Hill


Tete de Chou 5.13a, Todra Gorge, Morocco, first ascent.
Free Climbing El Capitan: A Journey on the Route to Liberation, produced and directed


Halong Bay, Vietnam, many new routes, with Greg Child


Clodhopper Direct IV 5.10+, Central Pyramid (3550m), Kyrgyzstan, first ascent, with Greg Child

Perestroika Crack (V 5.12b), Peak Slesova (4240m), Kyrgyzstan, first free ascent, with Greg Child

West Face V 5.12b, 1219m, Peak 4810 (4810m), Kyrgyzstan, first free ascent, with Alex Lowe.


The Nose,  El Capitan VI 5.14a, Yosemite, first one-day free ascent (23 hours)
The magnificent beauty and historic significance of the line, as well as my own efforts to free it, then later freeing it in a day, made this ascent the most meaningful achievement of my entire climbing career.

Mingus (V 5.13a, 12 pitches), Verdon Gorge, France, first free ascent, onsight, done while training for The Nose free 


The Nose, El Capitan VI 5.14a, Yosemite, first free ascent.

The final realization of this ascent was not only the culmination of my eighteen years of climbing, but it was also symbolic of the kind of values that give meaning and richness to my climbing experiences. Throughout my life, one of the underlying qualities that has inspired me to pursue my vision of what is possible has to do with trusting in what I truly love and believe in. Cultivating such feelings of passion and conviction is what enabled me to tap the source of my being and access the immense power of the human spirit.


Simon 5.13b, Frankenjura, Germany, first female onsight of the grade.

Rock Master, Arco, Italy, winner


Moved to France


Masse Critique 8b+, Cimai, France, first woman to climb 8b+ route

In 1990 I decided I wanted to do a 5.14, so I stopped traveling around so much and climbed in one area for a couple of weeks. I spent nine days on a Masse Critique and did it. Up to that point I didn’t have the opportunity to work on a hard route because I’d been traveling around doing on-sight climbs in preparation for one competition or another.

Rock Master, Arco, Italy, winner

World Cup Champion. Tied with Isebelle Patissier from France.

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See also
Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World
Voices from the Summit
Petzl Roc Trip in Zillertal
Famous Climbers' Portraits
Listen to the Master: Lynn Hill
It’s all in your mind: Mental Training Quotes
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Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik