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Changabang 6864m, south face

Region: Nanda Devi Group, Garhwal Himalaya, India


Few mountains in the Himalaya offer such a wealth of beautiful and demanding climbing.

Fanshawe Andy, Venables Stephen, Himalaya Alpine-Style


1. South Ridge, Ugo Manera, Lino Castiglia (Italy, leader: Renato Lingua), 1981 [AAJ 1982, p. 242-244;  Alpinist No. 1, p. 30]

2. The South Buttress VI 5.9 A3 WI4, 1700 m, Wojciech Kurtyka, Krzysztof Żurek (Poland), Alex MacIntyre, John Porter (England), 1978, alpine style. The route completed in eight day push after previously fixing the first six pitches in an attampt stopped by bad weather.  [AAJ 1979, p. 29-35; Mountain 1978, No. 64, p. 14; Mountain 1979, No. 65, p. 44-47, Climbing 1979, No. 55, p. 2-7; Alpinist No 1, p. 27].

3. The Southeast Face VI WI4, 1700m, Syd Clark, Dr. Jim Duff, Colin Reid, Alan Roberts, Ted Rogers (England), 1976, made in alpine style. They reached the summit after three days of effort from ABC by an ice-route [AAJ 1977, p. 249-252; Mountain 1976, No. 52, p. 13; AJ 1977, p. 239; Alpinist No. 1, p. 26].

4. The East Ridge, Chris Bonington (leader), Martin Boysen, Dougal Haston, Doug Scott (England), Balwant Sandhu, Chewang Tachei (India), 1974, the first ascent of the Changabang.  [AAJ 1975, p.91-84; AJ 1975, p. 239-240; Mountain No 37, p. 10; Alpinist  No 1, p. 24].


Bonington Christian, Changabang, AAJ 1975, p. 81-84
Duff Jim, Changabang’s South Side: The Cumbrian Expedition, Alpinist No. 1, p. 26
Kurtyka Wojciech, Szkocka piħtka, Taternik 1979, No 3, p. 100-103
Manera Ugo, The Italian Route: The South Ridge, Alpinist No. 1, p. 30
Porter John, Bandaka and Changabang, American Alpine Journal 1979, p. 29-35
Porter John, Changabang South Buttress, Climbing 1979, No. 55, p. 2-7
Porter John, South Side Story, Mountain 1979, No. 65, p. 44-47
Porter John, The Sunny Side of the Mountain, Alpinist No 1, p. 27
Scott Douglas, Changabang, Alpine Journal 1975, p. 154-159
Scott Douglas, The First Ascent of Changabang: The East Ridge, Alpinist No. 1, p. 24

Bonington Chris, Scott Doug, Changabang, Heineman 1975
Fanshawe Andy, Venables Stephen, Himalaya Alpine-Style, Hodder & Stoughton 1995



See also
The Shining Mountain
Himalayan Climber
Big Wall Climbing
Himalaya Alpine Style
Doug Scott, b. 1941, Great Britain
Trango Nameless Tower
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