Wolfgang Güllich 1960 - 1992
1985
Punks in the Gym X+/8b+, Arapiles, Australia, first 8b+ route in the world
Wisdom of Body 30/8b, Arapiles, Australia, new route
Yesterday Direct 28 OS, Arapiles, Australia, one of the first onsights of 7c+ route
Masada 30/8b, Arapiles, Australia, third ascent
Pferdefuss 10a, Teufelsturm, fifth ascent
1984
Rève de Papillon 8a, Buoux, ascent
Sale Temps pour les Caves 8a, Verdon, ascent
Papi Onsight 7c+, Verdon, second ascent
Face X-/8a+, Schellneckpfeiler, Frankenjura, ascent
Kanal im Rücken X/8b, Kastlwand, Frankenjura, new route, the first 8b route in the world
Zombie X-, Quaderwand, Frankenjura, second ascent
Vandals 5.13a, Shawangunks, second ascent of the first 5.13 route in the Gunks made in 1983 by Hugh Herr and Jeff Gruenberg
Weg durch den Fisch VII+ A4, Marmolada, Dolomites, third ascent
In Unterholz Xa/b, Brosignadel, Elbsandsteingebirge, third ascent
Kamikaze Xa/b, Rauensteinturm, Elbsandsteingebirge, second ascent
1983
Magnet IX/IX+, Richard-Wagner-F., Frankenjura, second ascent
Mr. Magnesia IX+, Schellneckwand, Frankenjura, new route RP, first Wolfgang’s IX+ route
Fenrir 7c+, Verdon, ascent
1982
Equinox 5.12c, Joshua Tree, second ascent on lead
Cosmic Debris 5.13a, Yosemite, third ascent on lead
Phoenix 5.13a Yosemite, sixth ascent
Grand Illusion 5.13c/IX+/8a, Sugar Loaf, second ascent, used pre-placed protection set from rappel by a friend
1981
Locker vom Hocker VIII, Wettersteingebirge, first VIII route in the Alps
Sautanz IX-, Göβweinsteiner Wand, Frankenjura, first RP ascent
Chasin’ the Trane IX, Krottens. Tur., Frankenjura, second ascent of the famous John Bachar’s route
1980
Hangdog Flyer 5.12c, Yosemite, ascent
Tales of Power 5.12c, Yosemite, tenth ascent
Razors Edge 5.12c, Yosemite, second ascent
1979
Utopia VIII, Asselstein, Pfalz, new route
Supercrack 5.12c/IX-/IX, Shawangunks, seventh ascent
First visit to Yosemite: repeats of Crimson Cringe 5.12a, Astroman 5.11+ (eighth ascent)
I really, really like the States. In all my vacations combined I have climbed I have lived in Yosemite for six or seven months. I like the people. They are very friendly and funny. I like the atmosphere, the whole scene. It’s easy living – buy a car, drive around.
1978
Superlative VIII, Bruchweiler Geierstein, Pfalz, new route
1977
Jubilöumsriβ VII-, Nonnenfels, Pfalz, first hard new route
I think it’s important to repeat other people’s routes to have a comparison, but only the creative potential makes a climber unique, not the record of repeated routes.
Opening photo by Thomas Ballenberger taken from the official page www.wolfgangguellich.com
Further reading:
Tilmann Hepp, A Life in the Vertical, Wolfgang Güllich – biography, Stuttgart 1994
Tilmann Hepp, Action Directe, A profile of Wolfgang Güllich, "Rock and Ice" 1992, No. 48
Nicholas O’Connell, Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers, London 1993
Beth Wald, Interview with Wolfgang Güllich, "Climbing" 1987, No. 102
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