climbing : Adam Ondra in Flatanger

In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.

Muriel Sarkany

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2 x 8c+ OS and 9a+ for Adam Ondra

This year, Adam Ondra decided to skip all of the WC editions and take part only in the IFSC World Championship in Paris scheduled for the mid of September. It’s been always obvious that the 19 year old is more into rock climbing than competitions and seems like natural forms have remained his main point of interest and inspiration.

Already in the last year, Adam declared his will to visit mystic Flatanger located in Norway. This summer his plans came true and currently, Adam’s collecting the first fruits of his visit. At the beginning, he decided to make an OS attempt on the main line of the area, called Eye of Odin (8c+). The route was previously the subject of a contest player by Ethan Pringle, Dani Andrada and Magnus Mitdboe during the Flatanger climbing festiwal. The prize of 1500 Norwegian Kroner was to go to the first climber sending the route. The lucky one appeared to be Ethan Prigle, who eventually opened the route. This may stress Czech’s extraordinary shape as he sent Eye of Odin OS, admitting however that the last meters were like a total fight on the verge of a pretty bad fall since he decided to ommit some quickdraws.

Ethan Pringle after the first crux sequence of Eye of Odin (photo: ethanpringle.com)

Ondra’s next goal was Nordic Flower, the route established by Jorg Verhoeven. The Czech succeeded in the OS attempt and gave it a personal grade of 8c+ (9a originally). To sum up, Adam has already onsighted 11 routes graded 8c+, including the ones that he downgraded. Additionally, Ondra opened his own line giving it 9a+ (maybe /b) grade. The route is a combination of two previously unclimbed pitches and waits for the next conquerors. Chech’s proceedings are filmed by Petr Pavlícek, who is doing his second documentary with Ondra.

As far as his personal feelings are concerned, Adam seem to be bewitched with the Norwegian spot. He emphasizes the structure and quality of the granite as well as the beauty of climbing sequences, calling Flatanger an ideal alternative for the summer period.

Adam admits that he’s thinking about setting some more hard routes but first he wants to ckeck out the climbing potential of the even bigger caves in the vicinity and there seems to be about 7 of them.

Source: 8a.nu, ethanpringle.com

All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2017 Piotr Drożdż - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika Młodecka, Janusz Szymik

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