In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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Mick Fowler, b. 1956, Great Britain
Dean Potter, b. 1972, USA
Steph Davis, b. 1973, USA
Wojciech „Voytek” Kurtyka, b. 1947, Poland
Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany

Wolfgang Güllich 1960 - 1992


Punks in the Gym X+/8b+, Arapiles, Australia, first 8b+ route in the world

Wisdom of Body 30/8b, Arapiles, Australia, new route

Yesterday Direct 28 OS, Arapiles, Australia, one of the first onsights of 7c+ route

Masada 30/8b, Arapiles, Australia, third ascent

Pferdefuss 10a, Teufelsturm, fifth ascent


Rève de Papillon 8a, Buoux, ascent

Sale Temps pour les Caves 8a, Verdon, ascent

Papi Onsight 7c+, Verdon, second ascent

Face X-/8a+, Schellneckpfeiler, Frankenjura, ascent

Kanal im Rücken X/8b, Kastlwand, Frankenjura, new route, the first 8b route in the world

Zombie X-, Quaderwand, Frankenjura, second ascent

Vandals 5.13a, Shawangunks, second ascent of the first 5.13 route in the Gunks made in 1983 by Hugh Herr and Jeff Gruenberg

Weg durch den Fisch VII+ A4, Marmolada, Dolomites, third ascent

In Unterholz Xa/b, Brosignadel, Elbsandsteingebirge, third ascent

Kamikaze Xa/b, Rauensteinturm, Elbsandsteingebirge, second ascent


Magnet IX/IX+, Richard-Wagner-F., Frankenjura, second ascent

Mr. Magnesia IX+, Schellneckwand, Frankenjura, new route RP, first Wolfgang’s IX+ route

Fenrir 7c+, Verdon, ascent


Equinox 5.12c, Joshua Tree, second ascent on lead

Cosmic Debris 5.13a, Yosemite, third ascent on lead

Phoenix 5.13a Yosemite, sixth ascent

Grand Illusion 5.13c/IX+/8a, Sugar Loaf, second ascent, used pre-placed protection set from rappel by a friend


Locker vom Hocker VIII, Wettersteingebirge, first VIII route in the Alps

Sautanz IX-, Göβweinsteiner Wand, Frankenjura, first RP ascent

Chasin’ the Trane IX, Krottens. Tur., Frankenjura, second ascent of the famous John Bachar’s route


Hangdog Flyer 5.12c, Yosemite, ascent

Tales of Power 5.12c, Yosemite, tenth ascent

Razors Edge 5.12c, Yosemite, second ascent


Utopia VIII, Asselstein, Pfalz, new route

Supercrack 5.12c/IX-/IX, Shawangunks, seventh ascent

First visit to Yosemite: repeats of Crimson Cringe 5.12a, Astroman 5.11+ (eighth ascent)

I really, really like the States. In all my vacations combined I have climbed I have lived in Yosemite for six or seven months. I like the people. They are very friendly and funny. I like the atmosphere, the whole scene. It’s easy living – buy a car, drive around.


Superlative VIII, Bruchweiler Geierstein, Pfalz, new route


Jubilöumsriβ VII-, Nonnenfels, Pfalz, first hard new route

I think it’s important to repeat other people’s routes to have a comparison, but only the creative potential makes a climber unique, not the record of repeated routes.



Opening photo by Thomas Ballenberger taken from the official page

Further reading:
Tilmann Hepp, A Life in the Vertical, Wolfgang Güllich – biography, Stuttgart 1994
Tilmann Hepp, Action Directe, A profile of Wolfgang Güllich, "Rock and Ice" 1992, No. 48
Nicholas O’Connell, Beyond Risk, Conversations with Climbers, London 1993
Beth Wald, Interview with Wolfgang Güllich, "Climbing" 1987, No. 102


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See also
 Climbandmore special
The Last, but Not Least Decade
 News/Last added
FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+
Echo from the rocks – Söderlund, Sharma, Harnden, Fineron
Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
Trango Nameless Tower
Torre Central
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