Shortcut – a new Czech route
in Madagascar

A Czech team consisiting of Tomáš Sobotka and Ondra Beneš has put up a new route on the 800m wall of Tsaranoro Kely, Tsaranoro’s northern summit.

Ascending the peak through the huge granite wall was the main target of the expedition. The team focused on the longest line of the massive Tsaranoro Be, Beautiful, clear, black track from water across the entire 800m long wall. The super line. It was clear, so we started to work – recall Ondra Beneš and Tomáš Sobotka.
 
It took five days of drilling (as a result the route is equipped  with 140 bolts), climbing and jumaring before the team members reached the summit of Tsaranoro Be (1900m), the highest and most impressive wall of triple summit  massive of  Tsaranoro.
Finally, after some rest, on the 30. of September the Czechs redpointed the Shortcut.
Climbing all pitches in one day was quite exhausting. The difficulty of all pitches did not give us any possibility to rest. Our feet suffered a lot from heating climbing shoes, so we had to climb as quick as possible. After 10,5 hours we reached the top and so we ticked the 1st RP of the route.
 
The difficulties on the 16-pitch Shortcut are mostly 7a and the key pitch was graded 7c+. The route is the longest line on the wall. It was repeated by an Austrian team of Harald Berger and Florian Scheimpflug on the following day.

Source: http://www.czechclimbing.com/clanky.php
Photos: http://www.hudy.cz