New route on Cho Oyu,
solo in a single push

On 2.10.2006, Pavle Kozjek climbed a new route on the south-west face of Cho Oyu (8201 m) in the Tibetan Himalaya. He did the route in a solo single push from Advanced Base Camp at 6200 meters on the Gyabrag Glacier directly to the summit in 14.5 hours.
His expedition team mates climbed the same route on Cho Oyu SW face later the same day, and they reached the summit the next day (3.10.2006). From the Polish ridge they traversed to the normal route (W face). The rope party Uros Samec-Aljaz Tratnik climbed in alpine style, spending the night in their own tent at C3, and the rope party Marjan Kovac-Emil Tratnik used the acclimatizing tent at C2 on the normal route.

The new route takes line to the left of the Yamanoi route. After 1100meters of the new route on the SW face (V-, 50-60 deg.) Kozjek followed the Polish ridge for the last 900 meters to the summit. The crux of the new route is at the icefall on 7200meters (just below the Polish ridge). Kozjek bypassed it by climbing rock on the right side (V-). Later that day, rope parties Samec-A. Tratnik and Kovac-E. Tratnik climbed the icefall directly (AI4).
|