In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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Mick Fowler, b. 1956, Great Britain
Dean Potter, b. 1972, USA
Steph Davis, b. 1973, USA
Wojciech „Voytek” Kurtyka, b. 1947, Poland
Wolfgang Güllich 1960-1992, Germany

Andrej Štremfelj, b. 1956, Slovenia




South-West Pillar, Janak Chuli (7090 m), first ascent of the peak, 1200 m, with Rok Zalokar


Traverse of Slovenian Alps; thirty routes on twenty-seven different faces in forty days


Direct Nose Route, Sgur ean Fhidhler (Scotland), second free ascent


Leader of an expedition to the Nepal Himalaya  to teach alpine-style climbing to young Slovenian climbers


The Slovene Route (VI/4, 2000m), North Face, Gyachung Kang (7952m), new route, alpine style
North Face/East Ridge (IV/3, 650 m), Sigyang Ri (7250 m), new route


Colton-MacIntyre Route, Grandes Jorasses (4208 m), winter ascent
Croz Pillar, Grandes Jorrases, (4208m) winter ascent


Born Under a Wondering Star, North Tower of Paine, new route

Cho Oyu (8201), with Maria Štremfelj, in two days from base camp to summit, after trying to climb a new route on the nortwest ridge of the mountain


Southeast face, Menlungtse (7181m), first ascent, alpine-style, with Marko Prezelj


South Pillar, Kangchenjunga South (8476m), new route, alpine-style, with Marko Prezelj. THE CLIMB WON THE INAUGURAL PIOLET D’OR AWARD IN 1991.

"We began the ascent alone from BC. In the morning, the leader and the expedition doctor helped us carry some equipement to the base of the climb. In the first part we belayed only three pitches. I could comapre the difficulties with those of the Supercouloir on Mont Blanc du Tacul. A storm during the night dropped 15 centimeters of snow. The third day we left the south ridge due to fierce wind and avoided a part of the ridge by climbing up the southwest face. The last part of the route, in proximity to the Russiand Route, was very demanding. When ascending, the Russians used fixed ropes, the remains of which we found on the face. We climbed mostly unroped, exept for short passage where we symbolically belayed with a piece of their fixed rope.
Though we climbed in the area that had been climbed in before, we did not know it. Also, we did not expect such difficulties. Having surmounted them, we realized that the ascent route was too demanding to descent without rope. We had to descent a different route. We lost our rucksack, sleeping bags, and the cooker, as we head left them below the summit on our way up. Descending, we found old Polish ropes, but the second part of the descent led us across unexplored groud to the plateau. Here a friend, who happened to be in a camp that night on Kangch's normal route, helped us, giving us directions over the radio until the batteries finally died.
That we were members of a large Slovenian expedition, that from this point the route was marked, and that in an emergency help was available, were the only – and not unimported – deviations from the pure alpine style as embodied by Kurtyka and Schauer on GIV. I belive that we would have managed the ascent without all this, but the psychological relief it provided cannot be denied. On the other hand, the ascent stands out as exeptional due to the high attitude of the peak."

Andrej Štremfelj, The Himalaya: Observations from the roof of the world, AAJ 2001, p. 159-160.




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