Timothy O’Neill, b. 1969

2003

- British Route 5.12, Nalumasortoq, first free ascent, partner: Nathan Martin

2001

- Titanic Variation VI 5.10 A2 WI6, 1200 m, Torre Egger, partner: Nathan Martin, new variation to Italian-Austrian route in 59 hours from the glacier, first alpine-style ascent of Torre Egger, partner: Nathan Martin

That was for sure the hardest and most dangerous alpine climbing of my life. No placements… at midnight… in a snowstorm. The last 100 feet was rime ice with no gear. It was so intense I didn’t even turn my headtorch on.

Tim O’Neill, “Climbing” No. 213

- Tonta Suerte (Dumb Luck) VI 5.10 A1 WI3, 1800 m, Cerro Fitz Roy, West Face, new route done in 51-hour push, partner: Nathan Martin
 
- Regular Route, Half Dome + South Face, Mt. Watkins + The Nose, El Capitan, echainment, first one day (23: 45) ascent of three Yosemite grade VI walls on different cliffs, more than 80 pitches on three different walls in a day, partner: Dean Potter

- The Nose, El Capitan, two speed records: 3:59:35 and 3:24:04, partner: Dean Potter

Until recently, I had felt that the current Nose record [4:22] was unbeatable, impossible, super-human; after all it was Peter [Croft] and Hans [Florine] – two longtime, polished Valley speed denizens – who had established that benchmark.

Tim O’Neill, “Climbing” No. 210

 
- Club International V 5.11b, Lotus Flower Tower, Cirque of Unclimbables, first free ascent, partner: Jonathan Copp

- Autana Tepui 5.11+ A2, 25 pitches, 2400 feet, Autuna, Venezuela, partners: Hernaldo Arnal, José Pereyra, Anne Arran, Henry Gonzales, Xavier Potronco 

2000

- Corallo Route V 5.11, Aguja Rafael (Innominata), second ascent of 1994 Leoni/Salvattera route, partners: Nathan Martin, Bruno Sourzac

- Northwest Ridge V 5.11 WI5 M4, 19 pitches, Cerro Standhardt, new route done all-free in alpine style, solving of long-standing problem, no bolts were used and no pegs or anchors left in place, partner: Nathan Martin 

- Compressor Route VI. 5.11 WI4 A1, 28 pitches, Cerro Torre, 12 hours, partner; Nathan Martin

1999

- Lurking Fear, El Capitan, speed ascent – 5:17, new speed record, done on-sight,  partner: Miles Smart

- North America Wall, speed ascent – 9:36, El Capitan, new speed record, partner Miles Smart

- Regular Route, Half Dome, 2:08 (speed record) + Steck-Salathe, Sentinel, 3 hours (free solo, bike-to-bike) + The Nose, El Capitan,  the triple was completed in a total of about 21 hours, partner: Dean Potter