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Ama Dablam 6812 m, Northeast Face
Region: Nepal Himalaya




1. East Ridge VI 80o, 1600m, Andre Georges (Belgium), Alain Hubert (Switzerland), April 1983, leader: Nadine Hubert (Switzerland), four bivouacs above Camp 4, descended via Southwest Ridge, doing the first traverse of the mountain, unrepeated (2006) [“Mountain” No 92, p. 9]

2. Northeast Face VI mixed 90o, 1400m, Carlos Buhler, Michael Kennedy – USA, November 30 – December 7 1985, 7 bivouacs on the face, climbing predominately on snow and ice, with some difficult pitches of thin ice over rock, several waterfall pitches as well as much steep, unconsolidated snow [notes: AAJ 1986, p. 221-223, “Mountain” No 108, p.13] 

3. North Ridge VI 5.7 7-0 1600 m, Louis Audoubet (leader), Francis Chaud, Yvan Estienne, Jean-Francois Magnificat, Raymond Renaud, Marc Salomez, Bruno Solomieux  – France, accompanied by four Sherpas from Pangboche, October 1979, climbing almost entirely on ice exept for a few vertical rock walls, second most popular route on Ama Dablam [article:  Yvan Estienne, “Alpinist” No 10, p. 32;  note: AAJ 1980, p. 614-615]

3a. Northeast Spur Variation to the North Ridge VI 5.7 70o 1500m, Lincoln Hall, Andrew Henderson, Tim McCartney-Snape – Australia, April-May 1981, leader: Kenneth McMahon, the team placed  four camps and made one bivouac on the final assault [notes: AAJ 1982, p. 210-211, “Mountain” No 80, p. 13]

4. Japanese Route VI 80o, 1600m, H. Fukashima, Jasuji Kato (leader), K.Ogawa, Yoji Teranishi, M Tomika, T. Tsubai – Japan, September 1980, all members summited exept Hisao Fukishama, who was hit by avalanche and had to be evacuated, repeated by an unauthorized team [note: AAJ 1981, p. 252]

5. Stane Belak Strauf Memorial Route VI 5.7 AI5 A2+, 1650m, Vanja Furlan, Tomaz Humar – Slovenia, April 3- May 4 1996, alpine style on the second attempt, the crux of the route was 300-meter rock barrier at 5600 m (two rock pitches of  V+, A2+ and ice between 70 and 90 degrees) which was climbed in one and half days, the pair climbed on a single 8.5 mm rope and carried 5.5 mm rope for sack hauling and making rappels, they carried tent, sleeping gear, stove plus food and fueal for 10 days, the route dedicated to the famous Slovenian climber, Stane Belak-Strauf, who was killed in an avalanche year before, the ascent was awarded the Piolet d’Or  [article: Vanja Furlan, The Northwest Face of Ama Dablam, AAJ 1997, p. 5-12; notes: AAJ 1997, p. 296, “High” No 167, p. 65-66]

6. Northwest Ridge VI Scotish 7, 2000m, Julian Cartwright, Rich Cross – Great Britain, 2000, alpine style, 10 days, around 4000 meters of climbing, [article: Rich Cross, “Alpinist” No 10, p. 40; notes: AAJ 2002, p. 408-409]


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