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In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
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 Training

Listen to the Master: Lynn Hill

Lynn Hill


Fundamental beliefs in training
I think the most important things are having friends to train with, training quality over quantity, having goals, finding a proper balance between training and climbing, depending on your goals and the time you have available, and training according to your potential. If you have a natural tendency toword more power you should probably work endurance, etc.

Mental aspects of climbing
Relaxation, acceptance, and keeping an open mind are a key. First of all, peak performance isn’t possible if one is not relaxed, and if one is going to stay relaxed they must simply accept problems when they arise and decide to solve them. If I can’t do a move I merely accept that I haven’t discovered the right sequence, instead of trying the same sequence over and over or just quitting. I will try to do it 20 or 30 different ways, making subtle changes in body position and fot placement, until I find something that does work. That’s what I mean by keeping an open mind.
 
The essence of climbing technique
The essence of climbing technique hinges on having a keen sense of body awareness. Experience plays a critical role, but the focus of attention is paramount. When I first started climbing, my focus was polarized on clutching the handholds and I didn't pay much attention to how I placed my feet or hands. Over time, I began to understand the finer aspects of how to apply force on a given shaped hold. After years of practice, I learned what tensions and simultaneous releases are required throughout the body to make a controlled move to a hold at 45 degrees, 90 degrees, 180 degrees, and every angle in between. The greater my repertoire of movements, the more precisely and immediately I can assume the correct body positions in accordance with the infinite combination of hand and footholds.

Most important moves
High stepping, adjusting my body positions for maximum proficiency, using lots of intermediate holds, drooping myself in power positions like before exploding in a dynamic thrust or lunging (I do a lot of lunging), and turning to the side (hip turns and drop-knees) to gain maximum reach. I should point out that concentration is critical for precise execution of most, if not all, of these. For instance when doing lunges you must hit it just right and be very confident that you’ll stick it. Belief is key because if there’s any thiought that you might be too small or something, you probably won’t get it.

 

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See also
 Books/Movies
Climbing Free: My Life in the Vertical World
Voices from the Summit
 Climbers
Lynn Hill, b. 1961, USA
 Fotogallery
Petzl Roc Trip in Zillertal
Famous Climbers' Portraits
 Training
It’s all in your mind: Mental Training Quotes
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