climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Patrick Edlinger has passed away
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
 News/Last added

The Hardest Free Route On Cima Grande

Camilloto Pellesier's route was climbed in 1967 by Mauro and Minuzzo and was probably the peak of a dead-end street taken by diretissima aid climbers on the walls of the Tree Cime. With 340 bolts and about 50 pitons, it is in fact more a bolted "via ferrata" than a climbing route, and runs in a direct line from the bottom to the end of the overhanging left part of the Cima Grande north wall. But in the summer of 2003, this route took on a new dimension with Mauro Bole's first free ascent. He graded his free climb 8b and inspired some of the best alpine free climbers. My friend and climbing partner Marko Lukiè made the second free ascent only a few weeks after Bubo.


After my successful free ascent of the Couzy Memorial Route (8b or 8a+, 550m) on Cima Ovest last year, I decided to try Camilotto. But the weather this summer was really poor and with only my weekends off I needed luck to find days with good conditions on the wall. A free repeat of this route still has quite an alpine character; the rock is loose and rotten, bolts are not in good shape anymore and sometimes you have to skip them while free climbing - it's adventurous like most routes on the Tre Cime. After two separate days of studying the route, I thought I could redpoint it. But on my third visit the rock on the hardest pitch was completely wet. Water was dripping through thin cracks in overhangs and I didn't succeed. On my fourth visit, which was on 6th of August, I led the whole route without a fall. After twelve hours of climbing, I stood happily on the summit of Cima Grande in an evening snowstorm, with my wife Tanja, who climbed and supported me in my project (she is the best wife on the planet!).
I think grades given by Bubo are too hard. My suggested grades for the first six pitches are 7b+/c, 7c/c+, 8a/a+, 7c/c+, 7a, 7c+/8a. See also the topo!

Andrej Grmovšek, Maribor, Slovenia, September 2005

 
See also
 Interviews
Ines Papert on Camilotto Pellesier
Andrej Grmovsek on free ascent of Camilotto-Pellesier on Cima Grande
 News/Last added
Another Huber's free-solo
Ines Papert Repeats Camilotto Pellisier
 Routes/Crags
Hasse - Brandler, Cima Grande di Lavaredo
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2014 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik