Jeff Lowe’s Climbing Techniques
An instructional video, with Bird Lew
Filmed and directed by Greg Lowe.
Shot on location in Ouray, Vail, Boulder Canyon, Colorado and Poke-o-Moonshine in the Adirondacks.
Distribution in UK by Black Diamond Films Ltd.; 180 minutes
“Jeff Lowe’s Waterfall Ice is a serious and effective instructional video on how to climb ice, as well as being entertaining and enjoyable. It is designed to take an absolute beginner through the various stages of ice-climbing experience right through to climbing extreme mixed ice routes. It is three hours long, something at which my heart sank when I read it on the cover, but was surprised to find that it wasn’t as tedious as I had expected. Jeff Lowe has a calmly precise language, both verbal and body, which is highly effective as an instructional tool.(…)
The video is divided into six parts: 1. Hardware and equipment; 2. Waterfall Ice grade I through IV; 3. Advanced Waterfall Ice grade V&VI; 4. Boots & Clothing; 5. Mixed Rock and Ice; 6. Beyond technique (illustrated by an ascent of Octopussy and a first ascent of a 6+/7 mixed climb in the Adirondacks, as well as a solo first ascent of Positive Thinking). Each part involves a demonstration of techniques in the form of Birs Lew’s progressive lessons. (…)
Combined with Jeff Lowe’s book Ice World this video provides a very comprehensive and effective introduction, history, and education in the dark arts of modern ice climbing. Excellent. ”
Joe Simpson, „High” 1996, July, No. 164, p. 62-63
“Waterfall Ice is worthwhile, even essential viewing for anyone who climbs ice. Lowe is a master, one of the world’s most visionary and innovative practitioners of the slippery art of ice climbing, and he distils 25 years of experience into a well-organized series of lessons covering everything from walking in crampons to dry-tooling overhanging rock. You may not want to digest it all in one sitting, but no matter where you are on the learning curve you’ll glean something useful from Waterfall Ice. (…)
Throughout Waterfall Ice Lowe espouses a minimalist philosophy, emphasizing that, The purity of the ice experience lies in learning to use the minimum number of aids in the most efficient manner possible. Nowhere is this more apparent than in his own climbing. Economy of motion, finesse, and control have always been Lowe trademarks, and they are amply in Waterfall Ice whether he’s strolling up a Grade 4 pillar or tackling one of his hard new mixed routes. As the techniques become more advanced, he explains them less and less. Some will find this lack of explanations annoying, but I found this showing rather than telling very effective in conveying the nuances of high-end technique”.
Michael Kennedy, “Climbing” 1996, No. 157, p. 155-156
“One of the best things about Waterfall Ice is co-star Bird Lew. She is a complete novice at the beginning of the production, and though her rock-climbing skills and natural abilities make her a quick learner, Lew humanizes the learning process by showing a beginner’s hesitation. Lew also ads a touch of humor to the proceedings. (…) Her inexperience helps Waterfall Ice avoid one problem of many climbing videos, in which expert climbers make it look too easy”.
Douglas MacDonald, “Rock & Ice” 1996, November/December, No. 70, p. 130
“These sibling productions form Jeff Lowe [Ice World and Waterfall Ice, note by ClimbAndMore] bring to bear the breadth and depth of his experience at the vanguard of modern ice climbing and alpinism. Not just a virtuoso technician, Lowe has been a great innovator in the sport, developing techniques and tools while expanding the notion of what is not impossible. Coupled with Lowe’s deceptively easy eloquence as a writer and speaker, and high production values, these two efforts provide rock solid information and insight into the fragile and ephemeral world of ice climbing”.
Michael Beatzi, “American Alpine Journal” 1996, p. 335-337