From the Ushba Plateau, start below the snow saddle between Little Ushba and Ushba North Peak. Ascend a steep snow and ice slope on the Bolster, a shoulder at the start of the North-East Ridge. Pissible bivouac site, 1 hour from the Ushba Plateau.
Ascend the broad snow ridge of the Bolster (cornices) to the steep snow and ice slope on the right side of the North-East Ridge. Ascend the slope, turning the bergschrund on the right, for 250 m into the notch on a section of the ridge called the Nastenko Rocks and continue for 150 m up the easy and moderately difficult, shattered rocks. The rocks lead to the foot of a steep snow and ice slope (avalanches), which is climbed for 350m with a finish up 80m of moderately difficult rocks (loose stones) to gain the North-East Ridge.
Now follow the snow and ice ridge (cornices) for 400m, with three rises, to the summit. Possible bivoauc site, 6-9 hours from the Bolster.
Friedrich Bender, Classic Climbs in the Caucasus, Diadem Books, London 1992