Gear:
If you have to replace some gear because you were a wanker and you had to back off a pitch, again you have several options. The best store in Squamish is “Climb On”. This store also has a little bouldering wall, so you don’t lose your finger strength on a rainy day. In Vancouver Mountain Equipment Co-op is hard to beat. (2 locations: one on Broadway and one in North Vancouver on Main St).

Guidebooks: The most popular and comprehensive guide is written by Kevin McLane “The Climbers Guide to Squamish” (published by Elaho). There are also “Squamish Select” and “Squamish bouldering” available if you want to focus on bolt clipping and pebble wresting.

Routes: You’ll find everything here. Even “pad people” can boulder their little skinny butts off on over 1000 boulder problems. If you want something more productive you can actually tie in with rope and leave the ground. Again- the variety is staggering! Single pitch, multi pitch, easy, hard, gear, sport, crowded, unknown, free and aid.
For bouldering crash pad is mandatory. For trad- double set of cams and stoppers (RP’s included) will get you up most of the climbs.
There are some routes you should not miss. For shorter climbs Exasperator (10c) is mandatory. Also check out Penny Lane (5.9), Neat and Cool (510a) or Crime of the Century (5.11b) at Smoke Bluffs. My other favorites include Sentry Box (5.12a) , Grand Daddy Overhang (5.11c) and Perspective (5.11a) at Nightmare Rock.
But long free (in some cases some short aid too) is what you want to try. Grand Wall (5.11a, A0), University Wall (5.12a or 5.12d – depends on variation), Northern Lights (5.12a), Daily Planet (5.12b), Freeway (5.11d or 12a), Angel’s Crest (5.10b) or Squamish Buttress (5.10c) will make your trip for sure.

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