Alpinist 15, Spring 2006
Published 4 times per year
Web site: www.alpinist.com
FACES: GIULIO MALFER
Once an apprehensive physics student, George Lowe learned through climbing that even the most complex problems have elegant solutions.
THE CLIMBING LIFE
Observations from the field.
First Ascent: The Last Unicorn
The Last Unicorn is one of New Hampshire’s most popular 5.10s. For its first ascensionists the route was both a futuristic endeavour and a chance for a reconciliation with the past.
by Ed Webster
Crag Profile: The Needles
The Needles of South Dakota ain’t your grandmother’s Midwest… unless your grandmother happens to be Jan Conn. Pete deLannoy provides the overview while Herb and Jan Conn, John Gill, Bob Archbold , Paul Piana and Curt Love recount their crystal-pinching adventures in the Black Hills National Forest.
by Pete deLannoy
A pair of Québécois climbers discovered that the best new routes are like hot chili peppers: each moment of suffering fills you with a paradoxical desire for more.
by Louis-Philippe Ménard and Maxime Turgeon
A Long Time Coming
From the first ascent, to the first one-day ascent, to the first free ascent, to the first one-day free ascent, the Nose has been the setting for some of climbing’s most audacious breakthroughs. In 2005, rock’s strongest couple used it to establish breakthrough of their own.
by Tommy Caldwell
Ice climbing can transmute a fragile medium into the most ephemeral moments. A photographic portfolio captures three years of alchemy, from the French Alps to the mountains of China.
by Monica Dalmasso
Growing up poor in Calgary didn’t just encourage dreaming; for one young boy, it necessitated it. Canada’s storied alpinist recounts the climbs and partnerships that sprung from his childhood fantasies.
by Barry Blanchard
New routes, August 16 - November 15, 2005.
by Andrew Burr