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Annapurna 8091m, South Face
Area: Nepal Himalaya
A. Main Summit 8091m
B. Middle Summit 8061m
C. East Summit 8047m
1. Original British Route, summit reached by Dougal Haston and Don Whillans 27th May 1970, leader: Chris Bonington, Ian Clough killed in a serac fall on the descent [AJ 1971, p. 19-33; "Mountain" 1970, No. 12, p. 14-24]
2. Beghin and Lafaille attempt, Pierre Beghin, Jean-Christophe Lafaille, high point reached on 11th October 1992, Beghin was killed in fall on the retreat [AAJ 1993, p. 230-232, "High" No. 122, p. 3]
3. Japanese Route, summit reached by Hiroshi Aota and Yukihiro Yanagisawa, 29th October 1981, two days later Haruyuki Endo and Yasuji Kato were heading for the summit when Kato fell to his death [AAJ 1982, p. 230]
4. Polish Route [John Paul II Route], Maciej Berbeka, Bogus³aw Probulski, 23rd May 1981, leader: Ryszard Szafirski. Climbers used neither artificial oxygen nor Sherpas. Szafirski said: "I have to think of the north face of the Matterhorn for comparable technical difficulties of this level and continuity. The exposure is similar". The team dedicated their climb to the badly wounded Pope John Paul II. [AAJ 1982, p. 227-229; "Taternik" 1982, No. 2, p. 57-60, "Mountain" No. 80, p. 11]
5. Spanish Route, Nil Bohigas and Enric Lucas, 3rd October 1984, alpine style, they descended along Polish Route on 80-meter reppels, almost always anchored by a single point (it was the first time it was done on a major wall in the Himalaya). The team was supported by Anna Masip and Montserrat Soleras at Base Camp. [AAJ 1985, p. 285; "Mountain" No. 102, p. 26-31].
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