Interviewed by Tomasz Mazur for the Góry Magazine #179 (April 2009)


You declassed all your competitors this year. What (which factor), in your opinion, did contribute the most to your success?

I think I'm just a little bit stronger than the years before - the main reason is the brain - I am not that nervous any more and if I watch to a competition-route, I feel that I know exactly what to do.

Winning the World Cup made you a proud owner of all ice climbing trophies... What is your next aim? How will you find motivation to take part in competitions?

I don't think about the next competition season. It's right, now I'm not really motivated if I would think about competitions. But in the autumn its different, I will get my motivation back - for sure! But first I will focus on waterfall-ice-climbing and rock-climbing!

What do you think about latest changes in the climbing competition code? Is there anything what still should be changed?

Well, I think we need of course more World Cup events of good quality.

You are one of the best climbers when in come to mixt and ice climbing, as well as in sport rock climbing - you climbed 9a...What was the most difficult for you? Can you please tell me something about main similarities and differences between those three types of climbing?

Waterfall-ice-climbing is different to mixt and rock climbing, it's a big challenge for your head if you do hard ice-routes, and you need a lot of experience.

Mixed and Rock - climbing is mostly physically hard - but for me it's easier to calculate.

To climb 9a you need to be fit and strong especially in the fingers.

For an M14 you need a lot of power in the upper part of the body and also a lot of endurance!

For me it's perfect to do both 100%. What means Ice in the winter (without rock climbing) and Rock in the summer (without ice training). 

And the last, a bit personal question...your ideal holiday destination - tropical island? Or drifting ice floe? :)

First ice and mixed climbing in the Canadian Rockies and after a trip to Mallorca for Deep Water Soloing! Would be perfect - is it?