Angelika Rainer on Ice Climbing World Cup 2009
Interviewed by Tomasz Mazur for the Góry Magazine #179 (April 2009)
The woman competition was quite exciting, comparing to the "boring" wining of Markus. To the last round it was tricky to say who could win - you or Tolokonina. Finally you have got the second place in general classification, so is it success or not? For me it is definitely a success because in the beginning of the year I put me as an object for the season to get on the podium in the final classification and this I reached with the second place. In addition I won in Saas Fee the World Championship and so a real dream came true.
Some climbers complained about the low level of the organization in Busteni. Do you think could it have some influence on final score? Especially, in issue of your rivalry with Tolokonina?
I don't agree that the organization was poor. The only real problem for me has been the quite easy routes. This has been influenced by some factors; for sure one of them is that the route setters still think of us as not so strong. In the male final there have been 4 tops and in the female one five tops. This has for sure influenced the final result, but I do not say that only for this I have not won the competition (I had been ill the week before the competition and so I was not in a very good shape). I think that for the next year the route setters will have to understand that now there are many good athletes whit a very similar high level.
You are the World Champion. Again. But you are only 22 years old. How has it changed your "climbing" life? How is it important for you? What do you prefer: traditional, mountain climbing or rather sport competitions?
I must admit that in the moment my life is quite busy, there are a lot of interviews and appointments but winning a World Championship was something I had always dreamed of since I was a child and now I am really happy that it came true. Something that did not change is the training, as you said I am just 22 years old and I do not want that this will become my last success so I am very motivated to keep training and climbing. I like both alpine climbing and sports climbing, and in the future I would like to improve in the alpine sector.
In this edition of the World Cup some terms of competition has been changed. How do you find it?
The fact that spurs are no more allowed is very positive. In the beginning I was quite undecided about it because I found that climbing with spurs was something special for Ice Climbing and very spectacular but now I think that the competitions have improved with the change. It is no more possible to always rest and you need more power and persistence, something that for a level of a World Cup can be required.
What is the most important thing if someone wants to get success in the ice climbing? How looks your training?
Ice Climbing consists of both power and technique; they both have to be trained. So I train for my power doing short arm stretches and similar things and for the technique I do Bouldering and Dry Tooling with the ice axes.
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