North-East Ridge 4A (alpine D),
Ushba North 4696 m
Region: Central Caucasus
FA: H. Pfann, L. Distel, G. Leuchs, August 1903
From Camp Shkhelda, ascend the path on the right hand slope of the Shkhelda Valley, at first through forest, then across vegetated terrain to the Shkhelda Glacier, whose snout is litterred with stones of all sizes. Get on to the right lateral moraine 300m above the snout and ascend the moraine to where the Akhsu Glacier flows into the Shkhelda Glacier from the right. Turn left here and ascend the central moraine of the Shkhelda Glacier to below the North Face of Pik Aristov. Possible bivouac site. 5 hours from Camp Shkhelda.
From the central moraine of the Shkhelda Glacier, cross the galcier in the direction of the left lateral moraine of the Dvoina Glacier, which flows into the Shkhelda Glacier on the left, ending in a steep icefall (stonefall danger). Continue below the Dvoina Glacier to the foot of the West Ridge of Pik Woolley. Possible bivouac site.
From the foot of the West Ridge of Pik Woolley, ascend the left side of the Shkhelda Glacier under the slopes of the West Ridge of Pik Woolley. From the glacier, ascend a snow slope (crevasses) to the left to a rock projection (visible from a distance, with big, bizarre blocks) on the western slope of Pik Woolley. It is also possible to get on to the rock projection from the right over scree. This is the site of the German Bivouac hut, a ramshackled "howl" which can hold about ten people. 6-7 hours from Camp Shkhelda.