New Speed Record on Eiger North Face by Ueli Steck – 3:41
Swiss Ueli Steck set up a new solo speed record on Eiger North face with 3 hours 41 minutes (47 minutes less than the last record by Christoph Heinz). I am really happy about that. And I now feel in good shape to go to Annapurna - says Ueli.
The most important points in history of solo climbing on 1938 Route, Eiger North Face
Michel Darbellay (Switzerland), first solo ascent (2 days)
Six people attempted to do solo of the wall before. Three of those previous solo aspirants died on the wall (Mayr, Derungs, Marchart). Swiss Darbellay made his ascent the day after Walter Bonatti retreated in the face of threatening weather from two-thirds height. Darbellay took only 200 meter rope, 8 rock and 3 ice pitons, a thermos of lemon tea, packets of dried fruit and a helmet. He didn’t take bivouac sack, hoping to make non-stop ascent. Not only he was the first to do a solo of the Eigernordwand, but also he had climbed it in eighteen hours (excluding the hours spent in the bivouac) – remarkable achievement at that time.