You put in all this work and effort, you get really strong, you’re all over the route, you’re definitely gonna do it and then… Bam! Something goes. You’re injured. You have to take months off, which is so stressful.
Climbing Injuries – Master’s Advice
It’s not fair that some climbers can climb twice as hard, rest half as long and still have no problems with recovery or injury. But your body responds according to what is true for you personally, not to what is “fair”. The faster you accept this and learn what is true for you in terms of your athletic constitiution and recovery, the healthier you’ll be and the better you’ll climb.
Dale Goddard, Udo Neumann, Performance Rock Climbing,
If it hurts , stop and rest. No pain, no gain is a myth. Always see a good physio immediately after you are injured. Money spent on a good physio is better than losing a whole season’s climbing. Always, always warm up before you start climbing.
The most important factor in preventing injuries is proper warm-up. We can’t stress it enough. Warm up! The harder you plan to climb, the longer you should warm up.
The biggest mistake I've made over the last 15 years is not stretching, and I'm paying for that now in injuries. I don't take my clothes off and sit in front of the fire, but I do stretch my fingers, wrists, elbows, shoulders, neck, and back, a little all the time. I stretch my fingers so habitually that I don't even know I'm doing it.
If you’re not happy with the treatment that you’re receiving don’t wait too long before you change treatment or therapist. Ask other climbers if they know somebody. You have to be oprepared to stop climbing completely and rebuild your fitness slowly and you will get back to your former standard. Injurires taka long time toe heal. You have to be patient.
Quotes taken from:
1) “Rock&Ice 1993, No. 57 (Moffatt motto)
2) Dale Goddard, Udo Neumann, Performance Rock Climbing, p. 174
3) “Climber” 1999/May (Dunne)
4) Todd Skinner, Modern Rock Climbing, p. 87
5) “Climbing” 1996, No. 163 (Moffatt)
6) “Climber” 2000/April (Dunn)