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Chomolhari 2006

 

Meanwhile Prezelj, in party with Boris Lorencic decided to reach the summit via a new route on the sectacular Northwest Ridge.
From the bivy we climbed the couloir with the traverse to the right onto mixed buttres and up to the crest of NW Ridge. In the couloir we found knee deep snow and on steep sections of hard snow and ice."

The weather condition during all the ascent were very difficult with strong wind and snowfall.

The wind was strong, mixed with hard snow crystals and the climbing was serious up to M6+. We managed to climb the steep mixed section where we found some challenging passages of vertical sugar snow and sections with thin ice which was not sticked to the rock. The exit from rock to snow section was very challenging because there was constant flow of wind mixed with hard snow crystals and it was not easy to look up.

On the fifth day early in the morning the team started climbing the last mixed section. After three long pitches they got to the steep section with very deep snow. From there it was only 100meters of climbing to the summit. At first Prezelj and  Lorencic intended to descent the mountain via South Ridge, however they estimated the conditions to be too dangerous. The pair decided to descent by NW Ridge where they already had prepared their bivy spots. On the sixth day they got to the BC.

In general it was a serious climbing where logistics and choices of the tactics were probably more important than just "difficult moves of the body". I led the entire climb and we graded the route ED2, M6+/30-70, c1950 m.

 

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