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The Tsaranoro Group

Region: Madagascar, Andringitra National Park


A) TSARANORO ATSIMO EAST FACE

1. Mai Piu Cosi [Never the Same] 8a+ (7b obl), 670m, Rolando Larcher, Marco Sterni, Erik Svab (Italy), September 1998; 13 pitches: 6a+, 6a, 6c+/7a, 6c+, 7b, 7c, 7b+, 8a+, 7a+, 6c+, 6c, 6c+/7a, 6a, 122 bolts [High 199; AAJ 1999, p. 352;  Erik Svab: Madagascar’s Big Walls, AAJ 1999, p. 154-159]
2. Moramora 8a+/8b (7b obl), 700m, Francisco Blanco,Toti Valés (Spain), September 1999; 12 pitches: 6a+, 6b, 7b, 7b+, 7b+, 7c, 8a+/8b, 6c+, 7b+, 7c+, 7b+, 4- [High 211]
3. Toakagasy 7b+ (7b obl), 800 m, Denis Burdet, Régis Dubois, Damien Ruggieri (Switzerland), October 1999; 16 pitches:  [High 211]

Not shown on the photo:
Avana (Rainbow) 7a+ (7a obl), 530m, Alberto Zucchetti, Paolo Stoppini, Sandro Borini, Paolo Tombini, September-October 2004, 10 pitches: 6a, 6a, 6c, 6c, 6b, 7a+, 6c+, 7a+, 7a+, 6b+; 84 bolts for protection and 20 for belays


B) TSARANORO BE EAST FACE

4. Vazaha M’Tapitapy (Crazy White Men) 8a, 650m, Toni Arbones (Spain), Benoît Dormaz, Miriam Richard (Switzerland), June 2001, 16 pitches, 160 bolts [AAJ 2002, p. 350; High 236]
5. the 1997 Italian attempt [High 199]
6. Vazimba 7a, 800m, Alard Hüfner, Mike Mason, Matthew Munting, May 2001, 18 pitches [High 236]
7. Gondwanaland 7b+, 800m, Renato Botte, Dimitri Cola, Georg Egger, Helmut Gargitterm Toni Obojes, Claus Obrist, Michael Thaler, Pauli Trenkwalder, Diego Zanesco (Italy), October 1996, 21 pitches: 6c, 6b, 6b+, 7a, 7b, 7a+, 6c+, 6c, 6c, 7a, 7b, 7a+, 7a+, 7b, 6c, 7a+, 6c+, 6b+, 7b+, 4, 3 [High 186]
8. Norscapce 7a (max and obl), 800m, Walter von Ballmoos, Stephan Salm (Switzerland), July 1999, 16 pitches: 5, 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6c+, 6b, 6c+, 7a, 6c+/7a, 6c+, 6c, 6b+, 6a+,6b, 6a, 5; only 73 bolts [AAJ 2002, p. 350-351; High 211]


C) TSARANORO KELY EAST FACE

9.  Cucamber’s Flying Circus 7b+ (7a obl), 600m, Bogus│aw Fic, Tomasz Samitowski, Waldemar Niemiec, Krzysztof Zieli˝ski (Poland), August-September 2000, 13 pithces: 5+, 5+, 6b, 6a+, 6c, 7a, 7b+, 7a+, 7a, 7a, 6c, 6b+, 6a+ [AAJ 2001, p. 328, GÓRY 78, High 222] 
10. Everything is in Your Mind 7a (7a obl), 630m, Alexander Buzinkay, Ivan DoskoŔil, Vladimír Linek, Rado Staruch, Ivan Štefanský, September-October 2000, 14 pitches: 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6a+, 6b+, 6c+, 7a, 7b, 7a+, 6b+, 6a+, 7a+, 6b+, 6c, 78 bolts [AAJ 2001, p 329-330, High 222, Jamesák 2001/2]
11. Out of Africa, 7a+, (6c obl), 600 m, Manlio Motto, Emanuele Pellizzari (Italy), Michel Piola (Switzerland), Benoit Robert (France), June-July 1998, 14 pitches: 5+, 6a, 6a+, 6b+, 6a+, 6a+, 6c+, 6c+, 6a+, 7a, 6b+, 6c, 6b, 7a+ [High 199, 222]


D) AVARATRA

12. Bravo les Filles 8b (org. 7c+ A0),  490 m,  Nancy Feagin, Lynn Hill, Beth Rodden (USA) Kath Pike (Great Britain), first free ascent: Eneko and Iker Pou, 2004; 13 pitches: 5c, 6a+, 5c, 6b, 6b+, 6c+, 7b+, 8b, 7b, 7a, 6a+, 6b+, 6a), 490 m [High 211; AAJ 2000, p. 302-303; Climbing No. 192, p. 28]
13. Zoze Wall 5.10 A3+, 490 m, Misako Koyanagi (Japan), Jim Haden, Mike Libecki (USA), 1999 [Climbing No. 192, p. 28]

 

Articles:
Craig Luebben,
Our Time in Eden, Rock & Ice 2000, June, No. 101, p. 50-57
Erik Svab: Madagascar’s Big Walls, AAJ 1999, p. 154-159

 
See also
 Fotogallery
Madagascar Portfolio by David Kaszlikowski
 News/Last added
Shortcut – a new Czech route in Madagascar
Another free ascents of Bravo les Filles
Madagascar Big Wall: fast on-sights and serious runouts
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