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 Shipton Spire 5852m, East Face


Area: Pakistan, Karakoram

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1. The Khanadan Buttress (The Family Buttress) VI, 5.11+ X C1, 1300 m, 30 pitches, Brian McMahon, Josh Wharton (USA), August 2002, only 30m (wet roof) was climbed on aid  [AAJ 2003, s.360; High no. 245, p. 59] , second ascent: Dodo Kopold, Dino Kuráò, Jozef Santus (Slovakia) 2004 [GÓRY 2004/10, p. 12]


2. Knocking on Heaven’s Door, 8 A4, 17 pitches, 1000 m, Miro Mrava, Braòo Turèek (Slovakia), August-September 2004, after joining Akellare the team didn’t  reach the summit because of Mrava’s injury  [GÓRY 2004/10, s.12; „Alpinist” no. 10]


3. Akelarre, VI 5.10d A4, 1150 m, Jose Ramón Ezquibel, Jokin Larrañaga, Alvaro Ortiz (Spain), July-August 2000, after joining Ship of Fools the team was held up by a five-day storm and climbers didn’t reach the summit [AAJ 2001, p. 356-357] 

 
3a. American attempt, 5.10 A4 60o, 1100 m, Mark Bebie, Chuck Boyd, Gregory Collum, Andy Selters (USA), July-August 1992, 250 m below the top the team was forced to retreat by bad weather [AAJ 1993, p. 266]


4. Ship of Fools, VI 5.11 A2 WI6, 1300 m, Jared Ogden, Mark Synnott (USA), July-August 1997, the first unquestioned ascent of the summit, 25 climbing days, 20 nights spent on the wall [AAJ 1998, p. 21-33, 321; High no 183, p. 26]


5.  Prisoners of the Shipton, 8 A3, 21 pitches, 900 m, Gabo Èmárik, Igor Koller, Vladimír Linek (Slovakia), 2004 and Igor Koller, Vladimír Linek, Juøaj Podìbradský (Slovakia), 2005

6.Bulgarian Variation, Strahil Geshev, Milkana Ruseva, Stanimir Zhelyazdov (Bulgaria), 2004, [„Alpinist” no 10]


7. Women and Chalk, VI 5.13b (8a), 29 pitches, 1150 m, Mauro Bole, Fabio Dandri, Mario Cortese (Italy), July-August 2001, first all-free routhe on the face, all pitches led by Bole, 23 of the 29 pitches were 6c or above with 13 of these either 7b or harder, the hardest pitch was dubbed the California Crack and rated 8a [AAJ 2002, s. 369-370; High no 234, p. 65-66 GÓRY 2002/4, p. 12-23]


8. Baltese Falcon, VI 5.11 A4, 36 pitches, 1350 m, Chuck Boyd, Greg Child, Greg Foweraker (USA – Australia), July1996, the team was stopped about 10 m (!) below the highest point by wet, rotten snow. [High no 183, s. 26; „Climbing” no 172, p. 72-78, 133-135]


9.  Inshallah, VII 5.12a A1, 30 pitches, 1350 m, Steph Davis, Kennan Harvey, Seth Shaw (USA), 1998, Steph Davis’s ascent of Shipton Spire was the first by a female climber [AAJ 1999, p. 80-89]; second ascent: Mike Pennings, Jonathan Copp (USA), 2000 [AAJ 2001, p. 357];  third ascent, first all-female ascent: Cecilia Buil, Nan Darkis, Liz Scully, July 2001 [High 234, p. 65] 
 

 

 

 
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