Doug Scott

Doug Scott (b. 1941, Great Britain)

In order to climb properly on big peak one must free oneself of fear. This means you must write yourself off before any big climb. You must say to yourself, ‘I may die here.’

Doug Scott

Climbing is about pioneering new routes, exploring new ground, facing the unknown. Those hooked on the eight-thousanders will miss all that. They are wasting the best years of their climbing lives.

Doug Scott


Targo Ri (6572m), South Ridge, Central Tibet, first ascent


Arunachal Pradesh, INDIA, first ever foreigner (with Greg Child) to explore the mountains of central after an 18 day approach through dense tropical rain forest.   


Teng Kongma (6215m), North East ridge, NEPAL, second ascent
Drohmo Central summit (6855m), South Pillar, first ascent, 4 days alpine style, with Roger Mear  


Chombu East (5745m), Sikkim, INDIA, first ascent


Carstensz Pyramid (4884m), original route and new route up 600m North Face V (1995), INDONESIA, with this climb he completed climbing the Seven Summits (the highest on each continent) 


Mazeno Spire (ca. 5600m), South Face, ascent

Mazeno West Peak (ca. 5700m),  South Face, ascent

Mt. Pelagic (ca. 1828m), North Face, Tierra del Fuego, ARGENTINA, first ascent


Nanga Parbat (8125m), Mazeno Ridge attempt, PAKISTAN, climbed 3 Mazeno Peaks

Chimtarga (5482m), Original Route, Fanskiye Mountains, TAJIKISTAN, first British ascent

Mount Vinson (4897m), ANTARCTICA, ascent of the highest point in Antarctica


Hanging Glacier Peak South (6294m), South Ridge TD mixed climb, NEPAL, first ascent, with Sharu Prabhu, Nigel Porter


Latok III, Indian Arete TD sup. 800m, PAKISTAN, first ascent, with  Sandy Allan


Rock routes in King’s Canyon and West Cape Howe, AUSTRALIA, with Rick White, Sharu Prabhu, Simon Yates, Rowland Tyson

Rimo II, EAST KARAKORUM, reached 6600m, with Sharu Prabhu and Laurie Wood (peak climbed by Steve Sustad with Nick Kekus)


Mount Jitchu Drake (6793m),  South Face,  BHUTAN, first ascent of peak in alpine style, with  Victor Saunders, Sharu Prabhu

Makalu (8462m), West Face, NEPAL, attempt failed because of bad weather, fourth attempt on the mountain


First ascents of rock climbs in Wadi Rum, JORDAN, with Martha Scott, Sharu Prabhu and Bernard Domenech

K2 (8611m), East Face, PAKISTAN, attempt, failed because of heavy snow

Everest (8850m), Northeast Ridge, TIBET, attempt, with Rick Allen


First ascent of rock climbs, SOUTHERN INDIA


Nanga Parbat (8125m),  Southwest Ridge,  PAKISTAN, attempt, with Nazir Sabir and Reid


Mount Baruntse (7143m), NEPAL, first ascent

East Summit Mount Chamlang (7287m),  first ascent and traverse over unclimbed central summit

Makalu (8463m), Southeast Ridge, alpine style, to within 100 metres of summit, with Steve Sustad, Jean Afanassieff

Shishapangma, Tibet, 1984


Lobsang Spire (5700m), South Pillar, KARAKORAM, first ascent, alpine style, woth Greg Child, Pete Thexton

Broad Peak (8047m), Original Route,  PAKISTAN, ascent, with Pete Sustad

K2 (8611m), South Pillar, PAKISTAN, attempt, alpine style, reached 7500m, retreated after Jean Afanassieff became ill, with Andy Parkin, Roger Baxter-Jones, Jean Afanassieff


Pungpa Ri (7445m), Southeast Face, TIBET,  first ascent, with Roger Baxter-Jones, Alex MacIntyre

Shishamapnga (8046m), Southeast Face, TIBET, new route, with Roger Baxter-Jones, Alex MacIntyre


Shivling (6543m), East Pillar, first ascent in 13-day alpine style push, with Rock White, Greg Child, Georges Bettembourg

Chamlang (7366m), North Face to Central Summit, with Reinhold Messner, Pasand Mingma, Alex MacIntyre


Les Droites, North-East Spur, third winter ascent, with Adrian Burgess

K2 (8611m), West Ridge, PAKISTAN, attempt, with Pete Boardman, Joe tasker, Dick Renshaw
Makalu (8463m), South-East Ridge, attempt, reached 8180 m, 9 days, with Georges Bettembourg, Roger Baxter-Jones


Kangchenjunga (8593m), North Ridge, first ascent, without oxygen, with Joe Tasker, Pete Boardman

Kusum Kangguru (6370m), North Summit, NEPAL, new route, with Georges Bettembourg

Nuptse (7742m), North Buttress, NEPAL, new route, alpine style, with Al Rouse, Brian Hall, Georges Bettembourg


K2 (8611m), West Ridge, PAKISTAN, attempt, expedition curtailed after Nick Estcourt’s death (leader: Chris Bonington)

Nuptse (7979m), North Ridge, NEPAL HIMALAYA, attempt (abandoned after heavy snow fall), with Mike Covington, Joe Tasker


Ogre (7330m), West Ridge, PAKISTAN KARAKORAM, first ascent, with Chris Bonington plus Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine to final tower


Denali (6226m), South Face, new route, with Dougal Haston

Ovelord (c.1526m), Southe-West Buttress, BAFFIN ISLAND, new route, with Dennis Hennek

Mount Kenya,  East Face Direct, KENYA,  first ascent, with Paul Braithwaite

Long’s Peak 4345m, Diamond Lil, COLORADO, with Dennis Hennek, Mike Covington


Ogre Recoinnaissance, KARAKORAM, PAKISTAN, with Clive Rowland, Rob Wood, Ronnie Richards

Mount Everest, via South West  Face, first ascent, with Dougal Haston (first Britons on summit, leader: Chris Binington)


Changabang (6864m), South East Ridge, GARHWAL HIMALAYA, INDIA, first ascent, with Martin Boysen, Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston, Tashi Chewang, Balwant Sandhu
Pik Lenin (7189m),  PAMIR, ascent, with Clive Rowland, Guy Lee, Paul Braithwaite)

Big Wall Climbing published


Spring:  member of European Mount Everest Expedition to South-West face (leader: Karl Maria Herrligkoffer)
Summer:  East Pillar of Mount Asgard, BAFFIN ISLAND,  first ascent, with Dennis Hennek, Paul Nunn, Paul Braithwaite

Autumn: member of British Mount Everest Expedition to South-West face, reached 8300 m, with Dougal Haston, Mick Burke (leader: Chris Bonington) 


Mount Killabuk, East Face, BAFFIN ISLAND, first ascebt, with Dennis Hennek, Rob Wood, Ray Gillies, Steve Smith

Mount Breidablik, North Face, BAFFIN ISLAND, first ascent, with Dennis Hennek, Rob Wood


El Capitan, Salathé Wall, first European ascent, with Peter Habeler
It had been a fantastic five days on a vertical desert of tock. I had become so attuned to being there, I felt I could go on day after day and nothing else mattered.
Bhos Dome, South Face, ascent, with Dennis Hennek, Don Lauria, TM Herbert


Cima Ovest do Lavaredo, German Direct (Baur-Rudolf), an early ascent of the 1968 route, with Jeff Upton and Tedd Wells


Petit Dru, Bonatti Pillar, with Dave Nicol


Koh-i-Bandaka (6837m), South Face, HINDU KUSH, Afghanistan, first ascent, with Ray Giles
First ascents of five other peaks in Nuristan between 5334 and 6096 m


Cilo Dag Mountains, SOUTH-EAST TURKEY, first ascents


Tarso Teiroko (ca. 3000m), West Ridge, TIBESTI MOUNTAINS, CHAD, new route and first ascent of the monutain, with Ray Gillies

Tarso Teiroko (ca. 3000m), North Face,  Tibesti Mountains, Chad, new route, with Clive Davies


Aiguille de Blatiere, West Face, ascent, with Will McLaughlin


Cima Grande di  Lavaredo, Comici, ascent, with Bill Cheverest
Derwent Valley – many new routes


Grand Capucin, The Bonatti Route, ascent, with Lun Noble
Expedition to Atlas Mountains, Marocco


Piz Badile, North-East Face, ascent, the first big mountain route, with Des Hadlum
Met Bonington and Whillans on Mont Blanc


First alpine season: glaciers and passes near Blümlisalp, Boeuf Couloir, attempt on Aiguille du Paigne (25-meter fall)
Hitch-hiked to Yugoslavia 


Cir Mhor, South Ridge Direct, first lead of a long mountain route, with Mick Garside, Gordon Mansellm Maureen and Harold Drasdo


Climbs on Ogwen cliffs, Snowdonia, with Mick Garside
Climbing instructor at Whitehall Centre


Black Rocks, Derbyshire – first leads
That was in the spring of 1953. A few weeks later Hillary and Tenzing got to the top of Everest on my twelth birthday.