Doug Scott (b. 1941, Great Britain)
In order to climb properly on big peak one must free oneself of fear. This means you must write yourself off before any big climb. You must say to yourself, ‘I may die here.’
Doug Scott
Climbing is about pioneering new routes, exploring new ground, facing the unknown. Those hooked on the eight-thousanders will miss all that. They are wasting the best years of their climbing lives.
Doug Scott
2000
Targo Ri (6572m), South Ridge, Central Tibet, first ascent
1999
Arunachal Pradesh, INDIA, first ever foreigner (with Greg Child) to explore the mountains of central after an 18 day approach through dense tropical rain forest.
1998
Teng Kongma (6215m), North East ridge, NEPAL, second ascent
Drohmo Central summit (6855m), South Pillar, first ascent, 4 days alpine style, with Roger Mear
1996
Chombu East (5745m), Sikkim, INDIA, first ascent
1995
Carstensz Pyramid (4884m), original route and new route up 600m North Face V (1995), INDONESIA, with this climb he completed climbing the Seven Summits (the highest on each continent)
1993
Mazeno Spire (ca. 5600m), South Face, ascent
Mazeno West Peak (ca. 5700m), South Face, ascent
Mt. Pelagic (ca. 1828m), North Face, Tierra del Fuego, ARGENTINA, first ascent
1992
Nanga Parbat (8125m), Mazeno Ridge attempt, PAKISTAN, climbed 3 Mazeno Peaks
Chimtarga (5482m), Original Route, Fanskiye Mountains, TAJIKISTAN, first British ascent
Mount Vinson (4897m), ANTARCTICA, ascent of the highest point in Antarctica
1991
Hanging Glacier Peak South (6294m), South Ridge TD mixed climb, NEPAL, first ascent, with Sharu Prabhu, Nigel Porter
1990
Latok III, Indian Arete TD sup. 800m, PAKISTAN, first ascent, with Sandy Allan
1989
Rock routes in King’s Canyon and West Cape Howe, AUSTRALIA, with Rick White, Sharu Prabhu, Simon Yates, Rowland Tyson
Rimo II, EAST KARAKORUM, reached 6600m, with Sharu Prabhu and Laurie Wood (peak climbed by Steve Sustad with Nick Kekus)
1988
Mount Jitchu Drake (6793m), South Face, BHUTAN, first ascent of peak in alpine style, with Victor Saunders, Sharu Prabhu
Makalu (8462m), West Face, NEPAL, attempt failed because of bad weather, fourth attempt on the mountain
1987
First ascents of rock climbs in Wadi Rum, JORDAN, with Martha Scott, Sharu Prabhu and Bernard Domenech
K2 (8611m), East Face, PAKISTAN, attempt, failed because of heavy snow
Everest (8850m), Northeast Ridge, TIBET, attempt, with Rick Allen
1986
First ascent of rock climbs, SOUTHERN INDIA
1985
Nanga Parbat (8125m), Southwest Ridge, PAKISTAN, attempt, with Nazir Sabir and Reid
1984
Mount Baruntse (7143m), NEPAL, first ascent
East Summit Mount Chamlang (7287m), first ascent and traverse over unclimbed central summit
Makalu (8463m), Southeast Ridge, alpine style, to within 100 metres of summit, with Steve Sustad, Jean Afanassieff
Shishapangma, Tibet, 1984
1983
Lobsang Spire (5700m), South Pillar, KARAKORAM, first ascent, alpine style, woth Greg Child, Pete Thexton
Broad Peak (8047m), Original Route, PAKISTAN, ascent, with Pete Sustad
K2 (8611m), South Pillar, PAKISTAN, attempt, alpine style, reached 7500m, retreated after Jean Afanassieff became ill, with Andy Parkin, Roger Baxter-Jones, Jean Afanassieff
1982
Pungpa Ri (7445m), Southeast Face, TIBET, first ascent, with Roger Baxter-Jones, Alex MacIntyre
Shishamapnga (8046m), Southeast Face, TIBET, new route, with Roger Baxter-Jones, Alex MacIntyre
1981
Shivling (6543m), East Pillar, first ascent in 13-day alpine style push, with Rock White, Greg Child, Georges Bettembourg
Chamlang (7366m), North Face to Central Summit, with Reinhold Messner, Pasand Mingma, Alex MacIntyre
1980
Les Droites, North-East Spur, third winter ascent, with Adrian Burgess
K2 (8611m), West Ridge, PAKISTAN, attempt, with Pete Boardman, Joe tasker, Dick Renshaw
Makalu (8463m), South-East Ridge, attempt, reached 8180 m, 9 days, with Georges Bettembourg, Roger Baxter-Jones
1979
Kangchenjunga (8593m), North Ridge, first ascent, without oxygen, with Joe Tasker, Pete Boardman
Kusum Kangguru (6370m), North Summit, NEPAL, new route, with Georges Bettembourg
Nuptse (7742m), North Buttress, NEPAL, new route, alpine style, with Al Rouse, Brian Hall, Georges Bettembourg
1978
K2 (8611m), West Ridge, PAKISTAN, attempt, expedition curtailed after Nick Estcourt’s death (leader: Chris Bonington)
Nuptse (7979m), North Ridge, NEPAL HIMALAYA, attempt (abandoned after heavy snow fall), with Mike Covington, Joe Tasker
1977
Ogre (7330m), West Ridge, PAKISTAN KARAKORAM, first ascent, with Chris Bonington plus Clive Rowland and Mo Anthoine to final tower
1976
Denali (6226m), South Face, new route, with Dougal Haston
Ovelord (c.1526m), Southe-West Buttress, BAFFIN ISLAND, new route, with Dennis Hennek
Mount Kenya, East Face Direct, KENYA, first ascent, with Paul Braithwaite
Long’s Peak 4345m, Diamond Lil, COLORADO, with Dennis Hennek, Mike Covington
1975
Ogre Recoinnaissance, KARAKORAM, PAKISTAN, with Clive Rowland, Rob Wood, Ronnie Richards
Mount Everest, via South West Face, first ascent, with Dougal Haston (first Britons on summit, leader: Chris Binington)
1974
Changabang (6864m), South East Ridge, GARHWAL HIMALAYA, INDIA, first ascent, with Martin Boysen, Chris Bonington, Dougal Haston, Tashi Chewang, Balwant Sandhu
Pik Lenin (7189m), PAMIR, ascent, with Clive Rowland, Guy Lee, Paul Braithwaite)
Big Wall Climbing published
1972
Spring: member of European Mount Everest Expedition to South-West face (leader: Karl Maria Herrligkoffer)
Summer: East Pillar of Mount Asgard, BAFFIN ISLAND, first ascent, with Dennis Hennek, Paul Nunn, Paul Braithwaite
Autumn: member of British Mount Everest Expedition to South-West face, reached 8300 m, with Dougal Haston, Mick Burke (leader: Chris Bonington)
1971
Mount Killabuk, East Face, BAFFIN ISLAND, first ascebt, with Dennis Hennek, Rob Wood, Ray Gillies, Steve Smith
Mount Breidablik, North Face, BAFFIN ISLAND, first ascent, with Dennis Hennek, Rob Wood
1970
El Capitan, Salathé Wall, first European ascent, with Peter Habeler
It had been a fantastic five days on a vertical desert of tock. I had become so attuned to being there, I felt I could go on day after day and nothing else mattered.
Bhos Dome, South Face, ascent, with Dennis Hennek, Don Lauria, TM Herbert
1969
Cima Ovest do Lavaredo, German Direct (Baur-Rudolf), an early ascent of the 1968 route, with Jeff Upton and Tedd Wells
1968
Petit Dru, Bonatti Pillar, with Dave Nicol
1967
Koh-i-Bandaka (6837m), South Face, HINDU KUSH, Afghanistan, first ascent, with Ray Giles
First ascents of five other peaks in Nuristan between 5334 and 6096 m
1966
Cilo Dag Mountains, SOUTH-EAST TURKEY, first ascents
1965
Tarso Teiroko (ca. 3000m), West Ridge, TIBESTI MOUNTAINS, CHAD, new route and first ascent of the monutain, with Ray Gillies
Tarso Teiroko (ca. 3000m), North Face, Tibesti Mountains, Chad, new route, with Clive Davies
1964
Aiguille de Blatiere, West Face, ascent, with Will McLaughlin
1963
Cima Grande di Lavaredo, Comici, ascent, with Bill Cheverest
Derwent Valley – many new routes
1962
Grand Capucin, The Bonatti Route, ascent, with Lun Noble
Expedition to Atlas Mountains, Marocco
1961
Piz Badile, North-East Face, ascent, the first big mountain route, with Des Hadlum
Met Bonington and Whillans on Mont Blanc
1958
First alpine season: glaciers and passes near Blümlisalp, Boeuf Couloir, attempt on Aiguille du Paigne (25-meter fall)
Hitch-hiked to Yugoslavia
1957
Cir Mhor, South Ridge Direct, first lead of a long mountain route, with Mick Garside, Gordon Mansellm Maureen and Harold Drasdo
1955/6
Climbs on Ogwen cliffs, Snowdonia, with Mick Garside
Climbing instructor at Whitehall Centre
1953
Black Rocks, Derbyshire – first leads
That was in the spring of 1953. A few weeks later Hillary and Tenzing got to the top of Everest on my twelth birthday.