climbing
In climbing I do things that I enjoy and want to do not the ones that are currently in fashion.
Muriel Sarkany
 Menu
Books/Movies
Brand news
Climbandmore special
Climbers
Clips
Fotogallery
Gear
Interviews
Mags
News/Last added
Quotes
Regions
Routes/Crags
Training
Walls
 Interviews
Muriel Sarkany - Portrait
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
Adam Ondra on bouldering
David Lama on Maestri Route, climbing ethics and...fishing
François Nicole on FA Amazonie 9a
 Interviews
 

Hot Chilli X 8c, Déversé sector, Gorges du Loup
(photo: arch. Muriel Sarkany/
murielsarkany.com)


I have noticed that your favorite way of working on a project is setting off for at least 2-month trip. In 2011 you spent three months in Gorge du Loup and you sent three lines graded 8c. This year you went to Santa Linya for twomonths and consequently you came back with two such routes on your list. Is it because you need to spend more time warming-up and getting used to the rock?
 

No, that’s simply how everybody works on a hard rock project. People stay for months in the spot trying the projects they want to send. For me it’s a little bit different because I need to go back home regularly. So in general I work on the same project one week or ten days maximum and then I go back to Belgium for about 2 weeks.  But it’s true that at this level, a project makes you work harder but at the same time respect rest periods that are necessary for the recovery process to take place. My main problem is that when it comes to hard routes I often can’t do crux sequences using “normal” methods because of my height so I always need to spend some time to find my own solutions.

 

Last Soul Sacrifice 8c, Déversé sector, Gorges du Loup
(photo: arch. Muriel Sarkany/
murielsarkany.com)


On your website I read that your favorite climbing spot is Saint-Leger-du-Ventoux. You also spent some time there in June working on one 8b+ line. When should we except any extreme ascent of yours from that area and what might it be?

;-))) Saint Léger is a very beautiful place but for the time being I go climbing there just for fun ;-).  There is no 9a yet but some day maybe there will be one ;-)))


Do you still tend to visit some of your local climbing spots in Belgium?

You know, in Belgium the weather conditions are not so favorable ;-))) it’s really difficult to find a god route and good conditions at the same time;-).


Your name is associated mostly with competitions. Recently, you have focused more on rock climbing. Are you looking for some new inspiration in climbing or heading in the direction of universality? Maybe next year we’ll hear something about your big wall ascents or bouldering achievements?

I don’t know… I try to live the present ;-) and I do things that I want to do. Devoting more time to rock climbing is what I always wanted to do. So I’m enjoying it. I also like bouldering so maybe one day I will try some hard boulder ;-) But I’m not going to do big walls just because it’s in fashion now…

 

Bouldering session during the Melloblocco event and...
(photo: arch. Muriel Sarkany/
murielsarkany.com)


Have you ever thought in some sort of moment of weakness or doubt that you’re not going to be as strong as you used to be and that maybe it is time to stop pushing yourself?

Sure!  Sometimes it is not easy to stay motivated all along because it takes a lot of time and effort to send something really difficult. For me the whole struggle with Rollito was exhausting but now I know that if the project becomes too hard for my head to deal with it, I must replace it with something else, try another route or simply do a small break instead of staying focus all the time on the same moves/projects…


What are your plans for the future?

I would like to continue what I’m doing at the moment: discovering new climbing spots, meeting people and trying to send a 9a ;-) !!!!*

 

...in Magic Woods
(photo: arch. Muriel Sarkany/
murielsarkany.com)


* Muriel continues her conquest of Gorge du Loup and is getting closer to her dream 9a level. At the end of August 2012 she added another extreme route to her list being simultaneously her first 8c+Ultimate sacrifice. The route was set by Axel Franco in the 90s and is the combination of New power generation 8b and Last soul sacrifice 8c.



Ultimate sacrifice 8c+, Déversé sector, Gorges du Loup
(photo: arch. Muriel Sarkany/
murielsarkany.com)



1 2 3 4  
See also
 Brand news
Wild Country Helium - recall notice!!
Product of the week - Asolo Distance M
Wild Country Ropeman 3 - recall notice!!
Product of the week - SALEWA Couna W/M
The Stickler
 Climbandmore special
The Last, but Not Least Decade
Arco Rock Junior 2010
Humbles stays home - Maja Vidmar onsighted 8b+
Martina Èufar: "7 Most Important Moments in My Climbing Career"
Natalija Gros: "7 Most Important Moments in My Climbing Career"
 Climbers
Martina Èufar
 Fotogallery
Aleksandra Taistra in Rodellar - Gallery
TNF Kalymnos Climbing Festival
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockastars - Isolation Zone Gallery
Build Your Boulder Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Superfinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Media Brunch Gallery
Black&White Semifinal Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Backstage Gallery
adidas Rockstars - Qualification Round
Moscow World Cup 2010
Ola Taistra Gallery
 Interviews
Mélissa Le Nevé on bouldering, competition, grades and the enjoyment of climbing
François Nicole on FA Amazonie 9a
Bernhard Schwaiger on bouldering
Phillip Schaal on Jade
Skyler Weekes - the King of the Dyno
Kilian Fischhuber on bouldering
 Mags
Klettern 11/05
 News/Last added
Hannah Midtboe and Sachi Amma going strong in Spain!
Alex Puccio in Chironico, Nalle Hukkataival and Jan Hojer in Val Bavona
Farewell to 2012 Lead World Cup series
Leslie-Wujastyk, Puccio, Koyamada and Kassay rock in the rocks!
9a for Jacopo Larcher and another 8c+ for Mélissa Le Nevé
A run of good RRG luck continues – Mélissa Le Nevé + Cardwell and Ondra
A wave of great ascents and... downgrading in Red River Gorge
Adam Ondra knocks down Red River Gorge - 2 x 8c+ (9a) OS
FFA of Punks in the Gym 8b+
Adam Ondra takes the lead in Red River Gorge and... flashes 5.15a/9a+ (?)
Another boulder conquests by Carlo Traversi and Dai Koyamada
Ines Papert and Lisi Steurer free Schwarze Madonna 8a+
Ashima in Red River Gorge – 2 x 5.14c/8c+ UPDATE
Carlo Traversi pushing himself in Magic Woods
Dai Koyamada's disappointment in Chironico
Shiraishi flashes Omaha Beach 5.14a/8b+
First Female 8B+ !! Starring Tomoko Ogawa
Entlinge for Niccolò Ceria
Echo from the rocks – Söderlund, Sharma, Harnden, Fineron
Stefan Glowacz frees Golden Shower
White Noise for Graham, Mind 2 Motion for Hong
FFA of Tetris 8A+
Change 9b+ by Adam Ondra
Smith-Gobat and Astorga's records in Yosemite Valley
World Championships 2012 - main results
Jakob Schubert claims the World Champion title !!
Mélanie Sandoz takes Gold !!
World Championships 2012 - exciting Women's Bouldering Semi-final
World Championships 2012 - Saturday's finals
World Championships 2012 - we know the first finalists!
Arco Rock Junior
Baston la Baffe by Metteo Della Bordella and Fabio Palma
Huber Brothers and Mario Walder successful on Mount Asgard
Stephan Siegrist at Cerro Stanhardt
adidas Rockstars - FINALS
adidas Rockstars - Semi-finals
adidas Rockstars 2012 - Qualification Round
Arco Rock Legends 2012
IFSC Lead World Cup - Briançon
IFSC WC Chamonix 2012 - Lead
IFSC WC in Speed Climbing - Chamonix 2012
adidas ROCKSTAR 2012
Bouldering World Cup - Vail
Get ready for the 2012 IFSC Lead World Cup !!
The Wheel of Life reapeted by Pringle
Another 8A+ for Alex Puccio - The Centaur
7th ascent of Jade - James Webb
Carlo Traversi downgrade Jade 8B+/C
Invasions 8B+ by Bernhard Schwaiger
Dai Koyamada on The Story of 2 Worlds
Another 8c for Ola Taistra
Harrington Joins 8c Women Club
Ociepka sends 8c
 Regions
Sella – the gem of Costa Blanca
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 4
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 3
Climbing spots of Catalonia part 2
 Training
Josune Bereziartu on Training
News | Fotogallery | Clips | Interviews | Gear | Quotes | Climbers | Training/Tech Tips | Regions | Walls | Routes/Crags | Books/Movies | Mags | Links |
All texts and photos copyright (C) 2005-2017 Piotr Dro¿d¿ - ClimbandMore, unless otherwise credited
Editors: Monika M³odecka, Janusz Szymik