Climbers like Patxi Usobiaga made popular training with additional weight – for example using weight vests. Have you ever used this or tried other ways of adding weight to your body during training?
I never used the additional weight for training, training is always hard, and if you put some extra weight, it is even more!!!
Back in the 80’s being flexible was considered to be very important for climber: guys like Edlinger, Glowacz, Moffatt, Moon were really flexible. Now it’s not so much revered. Do you consider flexibility important factor? Do you do any flexibility exercises on your regular basis?
I think that flexibility is important in climbing. It is not the most important, but it is nice to be healthy and do not suffer from any injuries. And it’s obvious that there are some routes with the sequences you can do much easier if you’re flexible enough. Normally I try to do flexibility exercises always when I’m done with the training part but sometimes it is just impossible.
Almost all the climbers who repeated Action Direct had made a specific training to do this. Mostly on campus board. Were you one of them? How did you train?
When I did Action Direct I was very young, I didn’t know much about training plans and all that stuff. I heard that doing Campus board was the best exercise one could do to prepare oneself for this route, and so I started doing a lot of campus. I didn’t know any specific Campus board exercises. I started experimenting in that field. I did a lot of exercises with two fingers and suspensions.
When you work on a hard project, do you tend to have some specific schedule, like for example 2 days on 1 day off, or does it depend on the route?
Usually what I do is two days climbing and one day off. But it depends a lot on the route. Sometimes I need more rest and I take two or three days off. I don´t like trying the same route many times within a long period of time, I prefer to try different projects within the same period.
How do current workouts differ from what you did when you were younger?
The main thing is that I need more time to recuperate after one day of hard climbing session. And the positive thing is that I have more experience and I need less power than when I was young.
Do you have any specific sport climbing plans for the future?
I don´t have any specific plans, but I bolted some very hard projects near my house and one day I would like to send them.
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